You sure it’s not F? If it’s C where do I buy that iron? 
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Hakko fx 951. Looks like ive been working in f this whole time? Didn’t realize i had somehow set the display or it came years ago set the f units. 450c is the correct temp 
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Still a great iron but there are a bunch of fake ones out for like $80ish doll hairs since it was discontinued - have heard they can be decent though via some YouTube videos
450C makes much more sense
For the most demanding joints I use my ksger t12 at 480C with D52 tips, works great although at 480 I can destroy tips very fast if I don’t pay attention to constant cleaning. Might not help that I’m getting 3$ aliexpress tips though
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That said I’m thinking of either getting a dumb but powerful iron with a very chonky chisel tip like a 150-200W weller or going for crimping when I rebuild of the raceboard. I want to go thicker than 8 awg
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The halko i have has a sleep mode when you put it in the cradle so keeps from oxidizing the tips too bad. It’s such a good feature and i get years of service from my cheap generic tips
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At or above 8awg, i feel like a crimp is the better connection type. A ratcheting crimp isn’t that expensive and can usually do up to about 00
Edit:
Never mind, the burndy one i have is actually very expensive
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The ksger also has sleep although it takes a few minutes to activate I think. At 400C working temp it doesn’t destroy tips if I just leave it.
At 480C I have maybe 30 seconds after cleaning before it oxides enough to be cleaned again, unless it’s actively in a joint.
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The micro switch on the halko cradle is instant sleep and drops to 200c so reheating is very quick. Super nice qol feature
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Use multiple email addresses if ya want! Let’s get this done!
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Gonna place an order for some battery cells soon. What’s the go to 21700 cell these days?
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Tenpower 50XG
Ampace JP50
Reliance RS50
Eve 50PL
All perform very closely to each other
The 50XG runs the coolest.
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Nice, thanks for the suggestions!
Im looking to get a high mAH one to build a small single drive with, like a 10s1p. Cost shouldn’t be an issue since ill just get 10 cells.
Then for the more normal sized packs I’ll pick the one that’s in between in terms of price to discharge ratio.
P45B and or P50B still a consideration or nah?
I am running a 10S1P of Eve 40pl, that I got when they were 4$ each.
I am impressed so far.
That said, I wish it were made with any of the Tabless 5.0 AH cells. as the extra $ for ~20% more capacity is kind of a no brainer with only 10 cells to buy.
I am also running 10s2P of BAK45D A04 since May, 10+ miles a day average, and if it has lost any range or torque, I cannot tell.
I’ve no personal experience with p45B or p50B.
@Pecos was not so satisfied with a recent P45b pack he made.
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I was not looking at the data on the p45b carefully enough and the burst currents absolutely murder the capacity on the p45b in my experience. Bursts of 30a a cell but averages around 12-15a a cell still hit solidly in the 40a discharge curve for capacity. The p45b imho is a marginal improvement on the p42a for eskate use and worth the upgrade from the p42a for the dollars but doesn’t perform like a lot of the newer tech out there. The bak45d is in the same price range and delivers more energy at the same discharge at similar or lower costs at lower temps with similar fast charging capabilities.
If you’re looking seriously at the p42a or p45b i would seriously recommend looking at the bak45d as an improvement that fills the same niche.
The p50b i think is priced too high for what eskate is doing with it now. The fast charging is unmatched but the reality imho is no one, not even me charging at 3000w, is using that aspect fully. And the tabless cells @SternWake recommended above (my experience is only with the rs50 and bak45d so far) have comparable if marginally lower fast charge ratings. The discharge curves mooch has posted publicly as well as the reports from his patrion members seem to be all in agreement that the tabless cells sag less, maintain capacity at higher discharge levels better, but also have some good individual cell performance differences that make some better for some instances and other better in different situations.
Like the 50pl : huge discharge rating so low p groups can support very powerful builds, but the rs50 actually supplies more capacity on the 40a discharge curve so larger p groups will benefit from a slightly lower discharge rated rs50 because they don’t need the full single cell discharge of the 50pl.
Lots of give and take and all the new offerings are really exciting. Molicel was king for so long but obviously none of the other manufacturers were sleeping and have serious competition coming out
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What kind of range are you getting with the 10s1p? Also dual or single drive?
12s2p on loaded hubs and bak45d i am getting a solid 20mi a charge. Foc unity if that helps. I think average on my mini shows somewhere around 9-12 watt hours a mile so sipping current on hubs but the math works out to 226 wh for the pack maximum means even at my bracketed voltage limits and bursts up to 40a im getting a lot of the batterie’s capacity in actual use. Can’t wait to get some real use on the rs50 and see how it performs irl. @MichaelWA has some miles on a 20s5p rs50 he can maybe report on for his white ember build at much higher amps
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I’m sorry, I have no good data on range on the new 10s1P EVE 40PL build, only recently made functional. It was built with 0.2mm copper and dual 14awg series connections.
So far it is being used mainly for low speed high frequency high amplitude carving close to my front door at reduced power levels.
When not doing this, I have been towing my 55Lb dog in her 35Lb loaded chariot on power level 3 of 4, so any data I did gather would likely not be comparable to a normal person’s usage. Power level 4 is a bit much for this mini kicktail build. It’s too easy to torque wheelie, and I am not Mr. kicktail, and am still getting used to the build.
My judgement of ‘performing well so far’ is based on the acceleration.
It cannot be sagging very much as it is likely quicker to 20MPH than my daily driver with the BAK45d 10s2p, that basically has same motors and ESC power levels. Every time I look at the remote expecting to see 3 bars I see 4, and expecting 2 bars I see three, ect.
Both my boards run hub motors and both currently have 105mm sleeves though the mini’s sleeves were worn to just below 103mm before being transferred to the mini.
The one data point I do have on the Mini was with 90mm worn motor sleeves and 80mm urethane up front. I got about 5.5 miles, towing Fiona in her chariot, but we were going pretty slow, and did not start out fully charged, nor did we ride to hard cutoff at 32v.
My other board with the BAK45D 10s2p (0.1mm copper), towing Fiona significantly faster, the minimum range riding aggressively and fast, is about 8 miles, but 10.2 to 10.8 miles is more realistic, and I have seen as much as 13 so far, being fairly conservative, but this ESC allows discharge down to 30v, vs 32v of the esc in the mini. This board uses kenda K473 9” tires up front at about 20PSI iirc.
There is very little elevation changes in my area. The only ‘hill’ I come across is when crossing the bridges to the barrier island.
It is hot Florida, and battery heating has been an issue. I was able to get a 10s1P P42A upto near 60C pretty easily in summer and the 10s2P dmegc 26E pack before that was regularly exceeding its 60C limit, even intentionally riding less aggressively, fearing that heating.
The Tabless cells desire for me, even though I cannot pull many amps, is mostly to help keep the battery cool, and to have as much torque on tap as I can. I can easily notice sagging with my limited power levels, but the tabless packs keep surprising me with their available juice even when discharged below their nominal voltage.
I don’t even worry about overheating the1P/2P tabless packs, where my non tabless packs( still used 0.1mm copper) I was lowering the enclosure after a roll, feeling heat wafting out, measuring their heat with an IR temp gun and sometimes a K type thermocouple, and then sticking a fan across them after a roll, before putting them back on the charger at well less than 0.5C charge rate.
I was glad to hear of Peco’s positive impression of his BAK45D pack as he has far more experience than me.
In terms of sag, the BAK45D and Eve 40PL cannot compete with the new 5.0Ah tabless cells at high power levels. The 40PL does however do pretty well at 100 amps in Mooch’s torture test.
I like my 40PL 10s1P a lot so far, but really wish I had waited and used the RS50 or the 50PL, or the Tenpower 50XG, or EVE 50PL. I did not have a build ready when I saw the 40PL’s had dropped from 6.25$ plus to 4$ and freaked the F out and ordered 13 and only started the build 3 months later.
If I were order cells and build a 10s1P today, I would get the Tenpower 50XG or Reliance RS50, leaning towards the Tenpower as it runs cooler, but Pajda’s cycle life testing, so far at 200 cycles, slightly favors the Reliance.
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Bummer.
I killed my GT 18S2P P42A pack.
Is the P50B available to buy in the US these days?
Is there any other cell to consider for an 18 or 20S 2P pack for a onewheel?
Or do I just fall back on P45B?
I’d recommend Reliance RS50 but they’re sold out everywhere atm. If you need a battery ASAP then I’d go with the BAK 45d instead of P45b. It’s about 50 cent more expensive than P45b but it performs much better. @Pecos did some test on it with a relatively small pack and it works better than P45b.
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