The Art of Carving

No 2 please!
I can knock out an enclosure. (I’m sure you’re more than capable of this yourself)

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Im going to make the deck slightly thicker with a neat routed lip underneath so an enclosure can finish flush with the deck height, easy to carry in hand

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You’re in Aus right mate? Interested in your board. :+1:t2::+1:t2:

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Im Aussie but live in Japan.

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Im going to raise the deck height above the motors for clearance, then drop it down to create a back foot pocket to my liking, then add a front foot pocket that works with angled FF stance.
I like motors in for crash protection of the motors and it wont cost me any enclosure space at all.

It seems Im making a directional esk8 deck

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I got the form mold half built today. I think Ill have the first deck pressed tomorrow if Im lucky

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What you see will be the top of the deck. I worked out how to really increase motor clearance too, the tail will be 9mm higher than the nose and I will use a 3mm spacer in the front with a 14mm spacer in the back.
Geometry stays the same but I gain bulk clearance.
It has 19mm drop btw.

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Please video of the glue/resin squeezing out. It will get @glyphiks turned on fast.

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Today I did a few klm dog boarding with the mastercarve and then swapped out to that second hand clapper that I did the chop job on the other day. Three weather I think its called.

The clapper is better for carving hands down.

The main reason is that its flat. Like seriously less than 2mm concave across its width.
The only bad thing about being dead flat is I never know where the edges are, so a slight concave lip right at the edge is best I think.

Humans are used to walking on flat surfaces, muscle memory is a stubborn biatch, I know that from my snowboard testing.
So walking around all our lives on flat surfaces then expecting to jump on a skateboard which is not flat, rather shaped like a canoe, and do crazy things is fighting muscle memory and evolution at the same time.

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This is what makes esk8 so interesting, because flat decks don’t work for me at all. I’ve been riding a wide deck with subtle gas pedals and a mild dropdown, and it’s pretty much ideal for me. Can’t wait to see what you come up with, though.

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Thats pretty much what Im building. The concave tells me where Im standing on the board without looking.
On this flat thing I actually find myself looking down to check where my feet are all the time.

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Got it. I read it wrong. Now even more interested.

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Unfortunately my press just had an issue as I was pressing the mold together so I wont be pressing a deck today, but the mold is just about ready. Over the mdf will be a heat mat and a sheet of aluminium to smooth everything out and distribute the heat evenly.
You can see I added reliefs at the back for motor clearance.
Im going to sand down some bamboo sheets to 3.0mm so I can do a 5x3 laminate. 15mm total thickness.
Then Ill go to buy the bits I need to fix my press.

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Good post.

I have a habit of pushing the back edge like I’m flicking the tail of a snowboard around. I wind up weight heavy on the front and getting the rear loose. had to reset for a downforce approach

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Starting turns is much easier than finishing them because we fall into a turn but we have to push our way out. Gravity is with us as we enter, but against us as we exit, so its gravity x 2 harder to exit a turn lol.

I dont think about getting my body weight back, rather I think about squeezing my board forward.

Imagine doing a squat, and then standing tall. The way you got from A to B was by straightening your legs right.
Now think about where that force would go if you were to limit your head height, with wheels under us, that force is easily squeezed out in front of us which puts our body weight to the back of the board with almost no effort.
Speed increases as a by product of this move so it really is a win win for board riders.

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And pressing!

After lunch Ill know if it worked or not.
I went with pva glue and no heat just to check if it all works or not before throwing my expensive epoxy at it.

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Ok so not a bad first effort.
As I suspected the 3m bamboo was too strong to fully conform to the tight pockets I made in the mold for motor clearance. The concave came out perfect.
I was using my snowboard cores which are 7mm and sanded 5 of them down to 3mm to do this job. I couldnt bare to use 7x snowboard cores lol but now I know I need to use really thin pieces. 1.6mmx9 layers I think.

Anyway Ill ride this one after I let it cure for a few days and cut it to shape.

I also made my first sourdough today just to prove I have fully embraced the post coronapocalypse.
I started that fucker 7 days ago from sultanas in a jar of water.

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Dummied up for a selfie.

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