Sorry to hear that! I caught it last month and it stuck around in my system for literally weeks. Absolutely focus on resting.
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Fackkkkkk man 
let me know if you need anything! I hope you get better soon :))
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This thread blows my mind, I’m excited to see what happens next!!
P.S. I hope you feel better dude Covid sucks so hard
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Getting back in the saddle after a few month hiatus. Feels good to be back on track.
Yes, this is a different video then what I posted in Nothing Fancy’s thread😂
thanks @TheSharpergardner for the vid!
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Glad i could help with a few vids!!!
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The big rebuild
Raced at Electrify Expo San Francisco. Really proud of my performance, finished 1st overall on Saturday. Was a hell of a weekend, had an absolute blast. Few months later, and it’s still surreal.
The only way this was possible was Reggie and Mario crashing into eachother twice in the same race. Still chasing a fair win against those two
Following EE San Fran, I was in 3rd place overall in Mod and Pro.
But with @poastoast’s great performance at EE NY he pushing me off the pro class overall podium
Thrilled with 3rd in mod though 
After EE, there’s no races for a few months. So perfect time for some big changes.
Finally took your advice. Took me long enough.
They came with 4mm bullets, but those won’t work with my G300s, so off they come.
Out comes the hydraulic crimper
All tied up and ready for install
Rear Replacement
Crazy amount of dirt from inside the pinion
Old vs New
I took the chance to turn my extra collars 90 degrees.
ooooo so mysterious
Neat photo of the negative terminal stackup of my of my rear G300s. I took this board rebuild as an opportunity to do a deeper inspections and re-do all the kapton insulation on all the terminals
Custom backshells seem to be intact 
Sensor Wires
The 6484s came with a waterproof sensor connector, and then an adaptor to the standard VESC JST. I already had the G300’s broken out to a JST, so I could’ve just used that.
Instead, I re-pinning the waterproof connector adaptor directly into the G300’s DB25 connector. One less thing to fail.
Before/after (the crimped pins then gets inserted into the connector housing)
Reassembling the connector, I had previously foolish forgotten to add F4 tape to the strain relief bracket. I think I was only saved by the high-quality wire that I used. I rectified that (the red stuff)
Looking good
Good progress. Hard to overstate how much time is involved here.
Few months ago, I made one of those little DIY CAN adaptors
I made it to fix a problem with Ankle Wreacher- the USB ports are comically inaccessible.
I added a branch/splice off my Megan’s CAN connector (by re-crimping it)
VHB taped it to my front box. Noice.
Cat-ermission
Front Install
There’s a reason I did this last- I need to entirely disassemble the front box. The 3D printed insert plates made it a lot easier though, so it wasn’t too bad.
Updating the sensor wires and fixing the strain relief
@HAIRYMANJACK lending a hand, attaching the pinions to the rear motors
Many, many hours later, and the motors are installed.
With the front box apart, I added these little silicon booties to the bolt heads for insulation protection. These are then taped down with a liberal amount of Kapton.
Reassembling, I added a bunch of foam to the bottom bracket holding the box to the frame. Hopefully will hold the box a little tighter and with less vibrations.
Reassembly went smoothly, so lets jump to skechier shit
I figured I’d throw in a couple extra volts as well.
The two 4s packs that I used to run (that had this top cell drained to zero volts) have been sitting in a corner for months. I figured I’d do something with em.
I ripped out the broken pouch cell, resoldered the power wires, and re-crimped with 3s balance connectors.
And by “I”, I mean I did one and @HAIRYMANJACK did the other one.
Good as new, like it’s from the factory.
Tape some foam to the top and we’re good to go
Small Problem: the BMS harness has 4s connectors, but this battery is now 3s.
Big Brain Solution: cut away the plastic so the 3s connector will fit in the 4s
imagenius
The reworked battery lead was a little short…
so had to do some heatshrink surgery
Wired up and not on fire 
small note about powerup
Even though I do have AS150s, the capacitors are so large I’ll burn out the AS150’s resistor. I manually charged the G300’s capacitors with the batteries through this larger resistor, before actually connecting batt+ to esc+ directly
It heated up so fast that I actually gave my a minor burn on my fingertips. oopes.
So now I’m running 15s. Kinda cursed but I like it.
I had a bunch of trouble programming the thing. Apparently motor detection doesn’t work with the CAN adaptor? So I had to access the inconveniently located USB port.
After reprogramming, only 2 of the 4 motors spun when given power. No idea why.
Giving up at 3am, I brought the non-function board to i2s SD the following night. After some professional programming help from the man himself, @HAIRYMANJACK got my board working again. He didn’t even spend any time on track that night
So, was this change worth it?
HOLLYYYYYY CRAP. yes.
This thing feels like a whole, brand spanking new board!
Most notable, the power delivery is significantly smother and more predictable. This thing isn’t jerky at all anymore, I can smoothly go from brake to coast to throttle around a corner.
Within minutes, I was doing 4 wheel slides on the BRP wides. Something I wouldn’t dare do intentially with the old motors.
That track night, I was averaging ~70Wh/mi. Significantly better then 110Wh/mi !!
@Skyart, these motors are incredible. Thanks.
This is the best new feature.
I have a functional handle.
Rogerfest
Roger rented out AVS for a day, and I really got to put this board through the paces.
Last year, my best laptime was 1:28.something
A Rogerfest, I put down a 1:15.92 
Near the end of the day, had some of the best laps of the year with @HAIRYMANJACK! I’d pass him in the turns, he’d pass me on the straight. 3 laps, back to back, full tilt. Incredible, stuff of dreams.
Still, I want to do better. Check out this screenshot from my Megan. I’m already near top speed before I’m even 25% down the straight.
Considering the next two races are long track, lets fix being passed on the straight! I could increase my pinion size, but I opted to shrink my wheel spur from 78 → 67.
Pssst buy my old spurs I’m price flexible
Still haven’t pushed the board past 50, but I feel rock solid at that speed. Confident I can go faster.
I needed a mount on my motor mount plates for [redacted].
I pulled the motors off, then drilled and tapped some M3 holes. Very nice.
The sir clip of the motors were rubbing against the motor mount, so I quickly printed some spacers.
They add some nice subtle color to the board as well!
On a whim, I changed up my linkage geometry to have less stear.
I think I like it for short track, not sure how I feel about long track yet.
And that brings this thread up to date!
Totally forgot how much I’ve done to this board in the past couple months, crazy to be going back through my photos and “oh wow, yeah, I did do that. Feels way longer ago”
This board hasn’t reached it’s final form yet. I’ve got prototype 3D prints in front of me, waiting to be finalized and installed 
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wait a minute
I got 3rd overall for mod in 
WAIT there’s no way i got 2nd overall in pro class 
they got the order wrong lmao
Okay, thread actually finished and updated now. Fatfingered the post button early (twice)
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LMAO
Sounds par for the course with Electrify
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BRO YES!!!
What a killer build update. I’m stoked for you.
I’m eagerly awaiting some logs to see what efficiency and thermals look like on the new motors.
It’s interesting that things are noticeably smoother now. Maybe the ESCs were protesting the high erpm’s?
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Check out the Megan screensh…oh yeah. I can just share the log directly
Motor temps never went above 70C at AVS. At track nights they rarely go above 50C
Really interested in this too. Don’t think it’s erpm? The old motors were bad at low speeds too. Maybe just higher quality windings? Idk
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Maybe bad detection values? Or the windings could have gotten partially shorted so that maybe one of the phases had different inductance?
It’s pretty easy to quick motors with iron losses if the windings aren’t top quality.
Daaang man - 50mph is FAST.
88wh/mile is significantly better than before right?
The amps you’re pushing here are pretty ridiculous. The g300 escs must be beasts. They don’t even blink. The esc thermals are so low lol.
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interesting. 4 channels keeps things pretty low.
max per channel motor current 97A.
max per channel battery current 47.5A.
peak wattage at max battery current across all 4 channels 11.3kw.
Need some peole to stay on 2wd to really find the edges of what vesc can do. 
new setup looks so good. it made so much difference. it’s cool to see. congrats.
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Just noticed you are running the same amps front to back, any reason for that? I can put down much more power with rear biased acceleration and front biased braking.
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do you spin the front wheels with even balanced power and thus put down less power? or? how does it pan out.
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Yeah even at my current power split of 60/200 I spin out the front occassionally. When I had 80/200 set I had significantly worse 0-20 times than just RWD with 200A each
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4wd definitely helps out, yeah. Still learning the new motors, hence the lower ~200 battery amp max at avs.
I’m going to do some drag pulls and hope to post some good drag race challenge times, soon. Boost up those numbers 
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Yup. No reason to, yet, I guess? I don’t have too much of a problem throwing my weight forward to get half decent launches. Should definitely look into it though. At the moment, If I go 100% from a standstill, my front tires are in freespin until like 20mph (If I don’t fall off the back) 
Perhaps I should do this alongside drag race times, using em empirical feedback instead of just my vibes. tbd.
Pretty sure I’ve got my brakes programmed to have a front bias atm. I’m not super vibing with them, so I’m going to be revisiting them too.
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