Sorry, yes the unit without accessories. No redesign, I do want the UART to VESC. I just want to use my own lights
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Ya I can definitely sell just the Self Powered TTL Module by itself. We can PM about the details.
@Fosterqc, A variation like that definitely would work great for summer boards. Not sure how many others would use it though.
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Hey man, still curious about getting just the unit with a ups?
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Is it possible to make a high voltage version of the SP? Up to 100.8V would be best I guess.
For a Onewheel finding a COTS buck and wiring it might be too big, although having lots of output would be cool.
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Hey sorry for not responding till now, I was on a trip when I saw the notification and totally forgot to come back to it. I am sure that it is possible to create one, but I am not sure how the size would end up comparing to an off the shelf buck converter. I haven’t looked into the parts available now, but I know that when researching the power supply for the current SP TTL module a few years ago, all of the small form factor bucks with > 1A output maxed out at 60v input. There may be new, more capable components existing now, but I also expect them to be in very short supply.
I think the most straight forward way to make a lighting controller with 100v input is to use multiple stages of bucks, but that will greatly increase the footprint of the design and may push it into the range of existing 100v to 12v buck converters once the heatsink is added on.
I dont have any plans to build a board greater than 12S any time soon so I won’t be trying my hand at the 100v lighting controller, but if someone does I’d be very interested to see how the implement the voltage regulation.
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Yeah this list is pretty good but needs more 18S+ options researched…
Much appreciate your answer.
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hey @Ricco. I’m finally getting my build going and bench testing the setup when i noticed something in the ttl app, i was setting up the rgb strips (using digital sk9822 strips) when i saw that splash carve isn’t an option. is this due to the digital rgb strips or my remote/ubox not being compatible or did i just not explore the app enough to find a toggle? i have the latest fw and vesc5.3FW. I’m using the ubox remote (NRF) if that is important.
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Hey @Pecos, this is due to the separation of the digital and analog side light modes in the TTL FW. At the moment, the digital and analog side lights have a different set of modes and due to complexities in porting the splash carve mode from analog to digital, that still remains an analog only option. Sorry for the confusion.
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All good, will any analog 12v rgb led strip work for the splash carve then? Honestly if the ttl module only did the splash carve it would be worth it to me lol. It looks so good I have to make it work on my board
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Yup thats exactly right. The side light ports of the TTL control module have 12v, R, G, and B pins. The 12v is the positive pin and the RGB pins are the negatives for their respective colors. That is the most common format, but it is just best to verify the connections match up before buying a roll or lights.
Its great to hear you like the splash carve mode so much cause that is definitely my favorite mode too 
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hey @Ricco. i need a little help troubleshooting. my bluetooth wont pair, says rejected by teltail. I’m using the android app and have the module powered, green power light and blue status light. the blue light seems to be flickering quickly. uart connection is connected to a usplit shared with a davega and the davega is working normally. power to the unit seems to be there, 12v and the rgb strip lights up when i power up the board. idk, any ideas?
edit: usplit has communication lights for both modules, esc yellow flashing. dev1 davega blue flashing. dev3 ttl blue flashing
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Can you send a screenshot of the exact message that pops up when trying to connect? That will give me a better idea of what is causing the connection to fail.
One thing you can try to get the app connecting again is (re)run the setup wizard. I have not run into this scenario myself, but running the wizard had fixed some unusual behavior for others in the past, so maybe it will work for your issue.
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Ok so on further investigation the app is not responding at all. When i go to connect the bluetooth via the settings/bluetooth connections i can see the teltail in the detected connection available. When i select it i get “connection refused by teltail”. And it remains on my list of available connections and unconnected.
When i open the app it is frozen and I can’t select any buttons or menus. After a short while android will pop up an “app is not responding” with a wait or terminate options. If I choose wait it just sits frozen until I leave focus and pops the same msg if I return to the app
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Thank you for reporting this. Has the app connected in the past and this just started? Or is this happening on your first attempt to connect? I have not seen this issue before so I do not have an immediate solution, but this gives me some insight into how to debug.
Can you also tell me what android version & device you are running the app on?
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There was an issue with one of my devices connected destabilizing the can bus connection and I haven’t finished rebuilding around omitting it yet to retest the ttl.
I have connected to the ttl module with the app previously but that was with a different uart and can bus arrangement on a test bench on a different phone… so im just putting a pin in it for the moment until i can finish getting everything else connected and connected reliably.
With the economy in shambles im down to only working 60hrs a week lol. I swear the news cycle is completely ignorant of what is actually happening in seattle. Seriously though I should be able to get some time in the next week to take another crack at it
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Ok so I messed around a bit and was able to get the bluetooth to say connected when opening the app. Attempting to read or write the first time made it time out. Sent a crash report and got this msg on screen:
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So i got it sorted! Something about the device i was using just didn’t like the ttl and a fresh install on a different device got it up and running!
Now question time @Ricco: i seem to be missing something with the remote on input settings. Only having the ttl uart connected to the vesc, can i use the remote (hoyt puck) break tap control setup? Or do i need to have the pwm signal from my receiver terminated to the ttl also?
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No I thought “remote” input on the TTL was for 2 channels remotes so the second channel would switch LED modes
brake light brighten signal is from uart iirc, just like ERPM for the led modes.
Ok, so then i should get a state change when using the “flick the brake “ input option? Current I only have the txrxgnd three pin, 12v in, and left&right rgb led connections. I get good response from the leds as far as the ttl accelerometer goes in x and y modes. As well as rpm mode.
What should i be looking for beyond following the published instructions for remote setup?
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Sorry I am not much help, in the setup process in the app you choose if you have a remote I think. I honesty forget how it works. We will be informed of how soon here I bet.
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