Ya unfortunately you do need to have the A2D module connected to the LED strip for them to be compatible with the TTL controller. This is due to the difference in voltage used by the analog and digital strips. The analog uses 12v, but the digital uses 5v. So the A2D module drops the 12v from the TTL controller down to 5v and does the level shifting for data and clock.
What type of digital strips are you hoping to use? The TTL module only works with APA102 / SK9822 digital strips. I could add the A2D modules to your order and work out the price difference if you would rather use your strips.
I was going to source some 144 per meter strips using a silicone cover to try for a more neon edge effect, though I wasnât sure of the clock rate from your driver so I hadnât ordered yet. Preferably I would use sk9822 strips because they are cheaper and I donât need the higher speed.
Shoot me a pm or pp request for the a2d modules. I would like two, but prefer 4 of them as I like to have spare parts if you have stock to spare.
I am using a Ubox v2 esc and plan to use the 12v lighting output (3a12vdc) to power the ttl headlight/break light and injecting 12vdc to the high power strips from a buck converter if necessary. Otherwise i will use the light output as a signal to turn power on to a dedicated buck converter if that creates issues.
My scheme is to have the ubox power the ltt to avoid having the ltt uart active if the ubox esc isnât powered this way. The ubox will run one break light level during the day - when the ltt is off. When the ltt has 12v the headlights, splash lights, and break lights. im making a 3 input/level break light (pilot-break1-break2)
Just a heads up, if you go this route you would be limited to half a meter per side since the maximum LED count per side the TTL system allows is 72. Also the more LEDs per side, the buggier the TTL app will be since the LEDs take a lot of time for the MCU to process. It still works, you will just need to send some commands twice for the TTL module to take it.
If you still want the A2D modules then, I will PM you the payment details.
The setup you plan to have sounds very interesting! It all sounds doable as long as you are very careful about the wiring. If you need any help double checking your schematics before implementing it all, just shoot me a PM.
What is the difference between the âSelf-Poweredâ and âExternally-Poweredâ. I cant find a descipter and it looks like it just has and added XT60 and case?
@jbshayward, Sorry for the confusion. I realize the naming convension is not the most straight forward. It was intended to indicate that the Externally Powered version requires a separate 12v buck converter to power it while the Self Powered version can be connected directly to the battery since it has a 12v buck integrated into it.
Hey sorry for not responding till now, I was on a trip when I saw the notification and totally forgot to come back to it. I am sure that it is possible to create one, but I am not sure how the size would end up comparing to an off the shelf buck converter. I havenât looked into the parts available now, but I know that when researching the power supply for the current SP TTL module a few years ago, all of the small form factor bucks with > 1A output maxed out at 60v input. There may be new, more capable components existing now, but I also expect them to be in very short supply.
I think the most straight forward way to make a lighting controller with 100v input is to use multiple stages of bucks, but that will greatly increase the footprint of the design and may push it into the range of existing 100v to 12v buck converters once the heatsink is added on.
I dont have any plans to build a board greater than 12S any time soon so I wonât be trying my hand at the 100v lighting controller, but if someone does Iâd be very interested to see how the implement the voltage regulation.
hey @Ricco. Iâm finally getting my build going and bench testing the setup when i noticed something in the ttl app, i was setting up the rgb strips (using digital sk9822 strips) when i saw that splash carve isnât an option. is this due to the digital rgb strips or my remote/ubox not being compatible or did i just not explore the app enough to find a toggle? i have the latest fw and vesc5.3FW. Iâm using the ubox remote (NRF) if that is important.
Hey @Pecos, this is due to the separation of the digital and analog side light modes in the TTL FW. At the moment, the digital and analog side lights have a different set of modes and due to complexities in porting the splash carve mode from analog to digital, that still remains an analog only option. Sorry for the confusion.
J/K! Totally figured out now, Thank you!