TTL kit LED strips are 11mm wide about as thick as a longboard deck, so more like square off the edge then seal it over with epoxy.
One last idea for diy protection for the led strips you could bend some thick steel wire along its path and secure it with more wire/glue. That idea could be used with attaching them to the sides not inset as well.
These are all really good ideas for protecting the strips 
I especially like channels the tubes that @sleepless shared. Its really cool how they allow you to bend the strips perpendicular to the direction the light is being output. Ill take a look at these options further and see if any are feasible to add to the TTL kits.
Hey Matt would one be able to have different parts of the pixel LED strips configured to be front/back facing for the compass effects?
That sounds doable. The biggest challenge at this point is integrating the option to enable/disable a new feature in settings it is as simple and as possible and modifies the most light modes possible.
Can you describe what your picturing in a little more detail, there are a couple different ways I can picture that.
Sorry never realized you needed that input.
I figured it would be defining x-xx of pixels to be whichever side. so you could get front and back having more red/white tones while sides do whatever.
I tried to throw a TTL module onto this a quick build and it was kinda fine, I had set it up from when I used it on my Veiftech - DIY upgraded Leiftech V2 this was important because every time I tried to connect the android app it would crash.
when I got to Carve the LEDs were not reacting at full speed, idk maybe the heat? then it quit working entirely, both LEDs turn on then one turns off. it was on a 12S battery.
I am not sure where to look for the problem.
The other unit I think was fine if I could have connected the app.
ok so all I had to do was open the app and run the setup wizard. No bluetooth selecting or anything.
Working great again!
Oh thats a cool idea. Ill have to look into adding it in.
Cool! So did running the wizard resolve your issues with the lights reacting slow / turning off and the app crashing? It defintely sounds like you ran into a couple bugs but Im not sure where to begin to replicate your scenario. Was there any clear event that before hand everyhing (or at least one issue) was working fine, then after it wasnt?
yep! Not sure how I missed that wizard before but it sure was the trick.
well yeah It worked fine on the Leiftech, I did not use the wizard that I can remember.
Then the app must have updated when I was not using the board for a while and therefore was acting strange that next time I tried setup/connecting bt. That was on the unused TTL SP unit then when the app was crashing I tried the previously setup TTL SP and it was working already. Ran with it until it quit for whatever reason. All it seems to have needed was the setup wizard run.
@Ricco
Do i need to buy an a2d module to run my own digital led strips? Or is that a part of the standard kit? I chose to grab the analog kit because I already have addressable lights and wanted to use them with the ttl controller but reading through the documentation now im not sure I chose the correct option
Ya unfortunately you do need to have the A2D module connected to the LED strip for them to be compatible with the TTL controller. This is due to the difference in voltage used by the analog and digital strips. The analog uses 12v, but the digital uses 5v. So the A2D module drops the 12v from the TTL controller down to 5v and does the level shifting for data and clock.
What type of digital strips are you hoping to use? The TTL module only works with APA102 / SK9822 digital strips. I could add the A2D modules to your order and work out the price difference if you would rather use your strips.
I was going to source some 144 per meter strips using a silicone cover to try for a more neon edge effect, though I wasn’t sure of the clock rate from your driver so I hadn’t ordered yet. Preferably I would use sk9822 strips because they are cheaper and I don’t need the higher speed.
Shoot me a pm or pp request for the a2d modules. I would like two, but prefer 4 of them as I like to have spare parts if you have stock to spare.
I am using a Ubox v2 esc and plan to use the 12v lighting output (3a12vdc) to power the ttl headlight/break light and injecting 12vdc to the high power strips from a buck converter if necessary. Otherwise i will use the light output as a signal to turn power on to a dedicated buck converter if that creates issues.
My scheme is to have the ubox power the ltt to avoid having the ltt uart active if the ubox esc isn’t powered this way. The ubox will run one break light level during the day - when the ltt is off. When the ltt has 12v the headlights, splash lights, and break lights. im making a 3 input/level break light (pilot-break1-break2)
Just a heads up, if you go this route you would be limited to half a meter per side since the maximum LED count per side the TTL system allows is 72. Also the more LEDs per side, the buggier the TTL app will be since the LEDs take a lot of time for the MCU to process. It still works, you will just need to send some commands twice for the TTL module to take it.
If you still want the A2D modules then, I will PM you the payment details.
The setup you plan to have sounds very interesting! It all sounds doable as long as you are very careful about the wiring. If you need any help double checking your schematics before implementing it all, just shoot me a PM.
What is the difference between the “Self-Powered” and “Externally-Powered”. I cant find a descipter and it looks like it just has and added XT60 and case?
12V input and 50V input
easy to remember SP = STEPDOWN INCLUDED
Cool, the “externally-powered” would be for for 50v then?
you might be confused looking at the white letters saying 12V on the wires. But that is marking the 12V output not input.
@Fosterqc, Thanks for clarifying this.
@jbshayward, Sorry for the confusion. I realize the naming convension is not the most straight forward. It was intended to indicate that the Externally Powered version requires a separate 12v buck converter to power it while the Self Powered version can be connected directly to the battery since it has a 12v buck integrated into it.
Clear as mud! 
J/K! Totally figured out now, Thank you!
Is there any chance in getting just the self powered unit without the all the lights, horn and such?
