For the record I don’t think this issue is widespread and this only happened to 1 of my wheels.
So after a few more rides with the issue getting a bit worse and more dirt getting in there I decided to clean it up and glue it.
I used a couple soldering tools like flat edge screwdrivers to wedge it and make enough space for a dental water pik to flush the cavity out.
I used orange degreaser for some time and scraped what I could out with the tool. And followed up flushing with the dental pick thoroughly. 90% prep work.
Then I dried the outside and let whatever drip out. This glue recommends wetting the surfaces so I didn’t wait too long to inject glue. I did this like I cleaned with the water pick, inserted the glue nozzle between the wedges I jammed in and pressed in decently hard with the nozzle. I could see the glue flow into the cavity in every spot, very satisfying so hopefully this works well. I just wiped everything off with a towel after removing the flat edge tools and especially brushed the kegel holes with a straw brush.
Unfortunately no pictures of the glue application since that stresses me on it’s own. Hopefully this description can help out.
Yes I glued the screws in too. The other wheels I ‘repaired’ i used 4 screws and no pins. This example has 4 pins hammered in between core and wheel and two screws that go in diagonally from core to wheel.
I thought about this but I wanted something cheap, also that I could work with well to inject. The PU would have to go into some kind of applicator syringe. In my case most of the core is still holding so I’m more ok with something that isn’t a polymer.
Epoxy is probably better in a full delam like jeff, I would have removed the core to clean and coat it all with epoxy. Also not sure how good everything sticks to PU though.
I would def press that core out, I’m thinking it could be pressed back in nicely since the front tapers. I’d use a lot of glue and reassemble but cleanup of the kegel cores filled with glue sucks especially while its setting so maybe tape them off or something idk.
To me it seems fixable with the right glue and without reinforcement screws lol
So some small poke test and it delams again. Maybe riding tests will go better, I didn’t poke the other side. I’ll probably wait for full core separation, press it apart and epoxy it together. Anyone know what kind of plastic is the core made of?
Honestly, the only glue I’ve found that actually sticks to post cured urethanes is cyanoacrylate. Even urebond or a few specific urethane adhesives I’ve had lack lustre results.
Lol so good ol crazy glue. My concern with that is it dissolves the bonding surfaces including the exterior so you get a huge mess. Did you find it brittle or it created a good flexible bond?
Watching; I had some delam problems with some TB130 prototypes
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