Nice. Now its time to get out there and harvest your own experience and draw your own conclusions. And if you do choose to go for the max4 combo remember I have a brand new set that I am willing to let go for the price of the max5 combo.
I personally choose the max5 combo because of the size of the esc. The max 4 is big and to fit it on the spine is harder than the max5. The 70125 do run quite a lot cooler than the 56118, but the 56118 do run cool enough. I had them out on the track for lap after lap after lap in Montrevel in 30C and the sun baking and with speeds around 70kmh on the straight. They did get warm there but not too warm.
I could / and think I should test the max5 esc and the 70125 motors now that I have both here but I can’t promise I can do it in the near future.
And gears are luckily not the hardest and most expensive to change and play around with.
@tuckjohn has two sets for sale the latest i checked.
also personally, i’d gear for 80-85kph since the setup is so powerful already but that’s just me. my last board was occasionally geared for 73kph and there were times at the tracks i practice on that i wanted a little more because of how long the straights are. that being said, most of the races i’ve see. recently have been below that 73kph speed
I’ve been really curious to see if anyone tries a max4/56118 combo. Feels like it could be the smoothness (lack of hesitation on hard starts) while keeping things a little more affordable.
Not sure if anyone has done it yet.
@MoeStooge has this configuration been tried? Any reason why you see it not working together?
When reassembling, how do I make sure that the front and rear axles are parallel?
I start by tightening the nut, from above, the spine equipped with its four wheels on the ground then I finish by tightening according to the same process as in your photo (but in the other direction CCW)?
Parallel “straight” trucks is achieved by adjusting the link lengths after tightening the hyme. Don’t worry about having the
When tightening the hyme, you want to focus on getting it as vertical with the ground as possible. It’ll shift as your tightening it, so will probably take a couple tries. A couple degrees off is fine.
When putting it back on, make sure to use a similar amount of force, otherwise it’ll come loose while riding (ask me how I know)
i would even use another wrench or a cheater bar to get more leverage when doing the final tightening. i had mines come loose once but noticed it before something bad happened fortunately.
As much as you want
It is an additional variable you can tune to adjust linkage angle (especially with the short rods). As long as you’ve got a couple(4~5+) threads engaged in the spine, it’ll work
