SuperSpine #041 - WELKOM

After hesitating for a long time between the MEEPO MLR and the STOOGE SUPERSPINE, I finally chose the SUPERSPINE.

I also hesitated between the MAX5 56118 and MAX4 70125 combos.

*** MAX5 56118 combo ***


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*** MAX4 70125 combo ***


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With the MAX4, you have to trim the belly pan, because they are big. The ground clearance of the ESCs is also reduced.

No one has been able to tell me anything about the combination of the MAX5 ESC and the 70125 motor.

Here’s what Moe says about the these two combos :

At first I wanted to do 10S with these Lipos (Gens ace 5000mAh 18.5V 60C 5S1P Lipo Battery Pack with XT90 – Gensace DE).

With the 70125 560kv, 10S could be the right compromise, having for the maximum speed a little margin above 70 km/h.

But I finally settled for 8S with these (Turnigy Graphene Panther 6000mAh 4S 75C Battery Pack w/XT90) (8S3P 18Ah), because 78T spur gear is out of stock for an unknown duration. That also made me choose 10T motor pignon with 56118 motors, although @davidbonde explained they were not very durable (Stooge Raceboards Web-Store Up - #440 by davidbonde).

These are therefore the two possible configurations depending on the choice of the EZRUN combo :

For the colors, I chose :

  • Spine, wheel covers, stripe kit : Hulk Green ;
  • Pan : Hammered Silver.

It should look like that :

I wonder if I should leave the BMW wheel covers in gray.

What do you think?

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Nice. Now its time to get out there and harvest your own experience and draw your own conclusions. And if you do choose to go for the max4 combo remember I have a brand new set that I am willing to let go for the price of the max5 combo.

I personally choose the max5 combo because of the size of the esc. The max 4 is big and to fit it on the spine is harder than the max5. The 70125 do run quite a lot cooler than the 56118, but the 56118 do run cool enough. I had them out on the track for lap after lap after lap in Montrevel in 30C and the sun baking and with speeds around 70kmh on the straight. They did get warm there but not too warm.

I could / and think I should test the max5 esc and the 70125 motors now that I have both here but I can’t promise I can do it in the near future.

And gears are luckily not the hardest and most expensive to change and play around with.

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@tuckjohn has two sets for sale the latest i checked.
also personally, i’d gear for 80-85kph since the setup is so powerful already but that’s just me. my last board was occasionally geared for 73kph and there were times at the tracks i practice on that i wanted a little more because of how long the straights are. that being said, most of the races i’ve see. recently have been below that 73kph speed

i think these wheel covers look nicer

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Siiiiick can’t wait to hear your thoughts, soon I’ll be riding my Max 4.

I like the green wheel covers as well.

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I’ve been really curious to see if anyone tries a max4/56118 combo. Feels like it could be the smoothness (lack of hesitation on hard starts) while keeping things a little more affordable.

Not sure if anyone has done it yet.

@MoeStooge has this configuration been tried? Any reason why you see it not working together?

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This is not something that may have been fixed in G2 version of MAX5 HV?

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@dskate Max 4vesc to 56_118 Not to my knowledge.
Cant think of any reason why it would not be a good combo.

@DavidC i believe the G2 is the sensored max5 that we run.

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@fujio001 Thanks!

I am completely blasted by the quality of the MAD Race Wheels.

1 wheel seems to be worth the price of the 4.

The packaging is also very good quality!

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:heart_eyes:

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I have finaly chosen the MAX5G2 HV with 56118 motors.

@MoeStooge and other racers, do you recommend bending the belly pan like in the picture below to fit the ESC part holding the capacitors underneath?

To achieve this, is it better to heat the metal with a hot gun before bending it?

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Should I prefer to mount the ESCs this way? (and then capacitors would be less exposed and maybe ESC passive cooling would be more effective)

With the tomiboi track hawk the Max5 gear easily fits without modding the pan. I would go with motor leads to motor, battery leads to battery.

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@MoeStooge, I can not get this bolt to move, turning the wrench clockwise.

How do you proceed to prevent the spine from spinning?

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Could you bolt/clamp a long bar to the wings welded to the spin?

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Bolt your deck back on.

Put your wheels on.

Set your board on its side so you are pushing down on the wrench when loosening the jam nut.

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Thanks Moe it worked!

You really have to force it as much as possible.

When reassembling, how do I make sure that the front and rear axles are parallel?

I start by tightening the nut, from above, the spine equipped with its four wheels on the ground then I finish by tightening according to the same process as in your photo (but in the other direction CCW)?

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Parallel “straight” trucks is achieved by adjusting the link lengths after tightening the hyme. Don’t worry about having the

When tightening the hyme, you want to focus on getting it as vertical with the ground as possible. It’ll shift as your tightening it, so will probably take a couple tries. A couple degrees off is fine.

When putting it back on, make sure to use a similar amount of force, otherwise it’ll come loose while riding (ask me how I know)

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i would even use another wrench or a cheater bar to get more leverage when doing the final tightening. i had mines come loose once but noticed it before something bad happened fortunately.

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Thanks everybody for your help!

How many millimeters there?

I believe I measured 9 mm before unmounting but there is 6 mm frontside.

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As much as you want :slight_smile:
It is an additional variable you can tune to adjust linkage angle (especially with the short rods). As long as you’ve got a couple(4~5+) threads engaged in the spine, it’ll work

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Special recommandations regarding bindings position? I can’t feel safe riding without… And simple foot stops don’t do the trick.

I’ll use TRAMPA foot straps, because the fake leather of MBS ones wear off too fast IMO.

I’ve found this bindings pattern made by TRAMPA.

Should I move the feet further forward to improve turning ability? Or centered in relation to the board is the best?

I made capacitor bash guards for the ESCs, with Sugru.

1 Like