5/8-18
I would also recommend red loctite on the drive clamps
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Really…
I had used WD40…
Maybe that was my issue …
Lol
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Might be able to use a drill bit as a mill if you have a drill press. Drill through and then slide the mount back and forth to expand the hole. Or clamp in a vise and use a hand drill the same way.
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The laws of physics
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@rafaelinmissouri
With the install on either the steel or billet plates, apply red loctite to the hanger threads before install.
With the aluminum plate style, tighten the clamp first then the set screw last.
A few of the early batch steel 44mm plates had tight tolerances on the slots. Looks like another set slipped through.
I’ll get a replacement collar for the billet and exchange steel plates in the mail today with a return slip for the old parts.
If you need any installation or adjustment help. Please feel free to ask.
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i just took a file from home depot and went to town on em. didn’t take that long and now they slide freely which may be seen as a good and bad thing cause now it’s easier to shift but it’s also easier to set up my motors on different pinions
mines i got in vegas were part of that batch i think but i did the above and it’s good now
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Hey Moe.
I had red loctite on the axle and all the screws.
On the aluminum mount I did tighten the clamp first and last the set screw.
I let the board sit overnight. Not a full 24 hours… But probably 16.
The set screws did some deformation on the axle threads.
I am in the process of putting it back with the old mounts.
You don’t need to send me replacement steel mounts… (Let me see if I can finish it)
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I am back to where I started…
But better.
Motors slide up and down now.
Added and extra brace bar.
Added Jam nuts.
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Aluminum is junk for this type of application. Especially how it is manufactured. But what do you expect from an electrician. If you want to save it. Remove both brackets and install king serts in the aluminum. They look like this and you can get them from mcmastercar.
You will also need a drill, tap, and kingsert tool to push the keys down.
They are also called key locking thread repair inserts
P.S. Don’t tell the stooge. Or he’ll steal this idea as well. 
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On your axle. Get a file that has edge cutting, and file off the set screw mark and thread to make a flat. This way your set screw has something to lock into and won’t Destroy the threads.
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I’m having the same issue with my super spine. Can’t get the motor to mount since the m4 won’t fit through the slot.
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Dude.
Take it apart and take a Dremel to it.
I so wish I had done it sooner.
It was such an epic battle moving the motors before I fixed mine and now that they work normally I am stoked.
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Was thinking I might be able to find some screws with a better tolerance, but like you said, taking a dremmel probably easier. Only reason I haven’t done it yet is needing a smaller bit.
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i’d recommend to just grab a file from home depot but the dremmel idea will work too
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I had originally started with a hand file.
But that is some hard material…
So I gave up and got the Dremel out.
Either way.
So worth it!!!
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it only took me maybe 5-7 minutes a side and i was on a time crunch cause i had to drive to esk8con and still set up my trucks and motors once i got there. glad it worked out for ya
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A file works much better if it is a good mill bastard
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Sorry but why these slot are not just correctly sized for M4 screws? 
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This one was a bit of a head scratcher.
We have been running and racing the Billet motor plate coupler prototypes both on the metric and imperial hangers using both 16s outrunners and 8s inrunners without issue.
For the production imperial couplers fastener bolts were supplied.
The stripped threads are a result of the wrong bolt sent out with the coupler. Side by side the bolt thread looks similar. With the blue loctite you expect some resistance when threading in. It was actually cross threading.
@rafaelinmissouri replacement parts with correct bolts are in the mail to today.
Tightening sequence is Pinning bolt first collar bolts second. Go Liberal with the Red Loctite on the hanger threads.
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