Thank you for the great explanations!
So I understand that acceleration of MLR entry level race board is similar to your RC ESC based boards and only pro of changing ESC (and then battery) is higher voltage in order to gain top speed?
And then do you known what is max voltage motor rating on the MLR? Sometimes I think bearing max rpm is the question.
where did you get that from? i think the only way to get similar acceleration to hw esc boards are awd vesc which even then still aren’t guaranteed to beat them.
higher voltage will get you more top speed than a lower voltage battery running the same exact setup
i think you may mean erpm?
vesc 4 i think is 100k and vesc 6 150k??
Fastest 0-20mph time is a VESC based build.
You’re right tho, very unlikely this meepo matches a full SRB build. That would be insane
that’s why i added the caveat at the end. @poastoast is a madman
I swear he adds watts just by riding a board lol
He is full of helium. He removes weight
No, I meant bearings have max rpm, and when you go beyond this limit they can fail. That’s why motors have max voltage limit sometimes lower than what windings can withstand which actually depends more on total wattage UxI than voltage only.
Looking good! Are there any benefits in upgrading these parts other than reducing weight?
The new motor mount clamp setup looks interesting 
Do the new mounts have as much motor travel as the 44HD mounts?
I’m running chains and need the same length?
Please say yes.
I need a set!!!
are those motor plates shorter than the current hd ones?
Do the new collar assemblies add much height on top of the axle if using them on the rear?
It looks like you won’t need to be as fussy with them being perpendicular with the rods in that orientation though?
@sugandese With the billet mount, 90deg rod to hanger is less important but still a good practice to make approximate. They do eliminate the possibility of rod end bind if you are off a bit and add a bit more tortional leverage, reducing tortional stress on hardware from motor loading.
They do raise the attatched center by 1/8" or 3mm
Welp.
Bummer.
Got the new mounts.
They are nice
Managed to do a 23 miles rode yesterday.
They shifted down about 10mm.
Got them back on the bench this morning to move them back up.
And I stripped the hole for the set screw.
I am pretty good at breaking stuff, but these seem like especially soft aluminum.
I am not sure if I’ll try to re tap these, or if I’ll try to go back to the old ones…
I love these trucks.
But sometimes feels like the universe doesn’t want me riding them…
What would you guys suggest I use to grind the motor bolt slot on the old mounts?
I am not sure if all of them are made like this or if mine were built wrong.
But my biggest beef with them is the spot does not allow the M4 bolts to slide through.
So I could not move the motors up and down freely.
Once I found a motor spot I kinda had to thread the bolt in.
It has been a nightmare for me.
That is why I bought the new mounts immediately.
Since that is not going to work for me.
I am going back to the old mounts, but I need to open up the hole.
And there is nothing soft about the old mounts… So I am having a hard time taking material away…
Looks like a Dremel and patience may work…
