sorry i don’t, it was quite some time ago, not even on this forum
yes, but from a pc building standpoint, usually u will also need a pump and reservoir. i don’t know how much would that trasnlate to esk8 use, or if at all. I only know it has to be filled with water, mounting method / other required hardware I have no knowledge of. i don’t think i can help further on this matter
Don’t forget the radiator, since all that heat soaked up by the water has to be dissipated somehow. That would probably be the tricky part on a board, since you need to get airflow to it yet protect it from rocks and stuff.
This guy made an alarm that is sounded when the arduino is taken approx 10m away from the source beacons.
I want to add a beacon inside my esk8 remote and have it so that the arduino in my enclosure will sound the horn when my board is taken. The idea is I keep my phone and remote together in my bag safe with other bags. If someone tries to take my board it will sound the alarm because it is separated from my remote. Initially I was just going to have it trigger the horn with a mosfet controlled by the arduino but also controlled by the esc remote for use when riding
After seeing the video of how he made it play a .wav audio file, I want to use Jarvis’ voice to add voice effects to my board!Free Ringtones and Wallpapers - ZEDGE™ Combine that with the arc reactor and I will have the board light up while jarvis is talking to me!
Additionally, I want to add sound effects for when the esc is turned on with flipsky RTS switch “ready for takeoff” and then others like using the accelerometer on the arduino not just for the break light but when I accelerate fast it can play a .wav like “entering hyperspeed” and maybe a new chime every 10km/hr increase.
Is anyone familiar with connecting beacons to arduino? This looks useful GitHub - sandeepmistry/arduino-nRF5: Arduino Core for Nordic Semiconductor nRF5 based boards and nRF52832 with Arduino code and Android BLE IO - YouTube That video has everything I need for the theft alarm but he uses “Adafruit Feather nRF52840 Express”, I want to use my arduino uno that will also control the other lights and such so I don’t have to have multiple arduinos. Alternatively, I could have the main arduino connected to the esc and/or controlled by a mosfet on the remote and then have this smaller lower power one connected to the battery to reduce the battery consumption. Also I will have a physical switch to turn off the arduino as it will be always on till the pack is empty and bms shutting it off. I will design the enclosure to have the physical switch concealed so a robber cant find it to turn off the alarm! Even though one arduino needs to be always on, its not much consumption with my massive battery pack.
I have this remote and its transmitter which will connect to arduino to control the light mosfets and breaklight/led rgb strip
If I can use the remote as the beacon then I won’t have to make more room in my esk8 remote and won’t need this extra ibeacon device! This would be ideal.
Printing in the orientation you have shown will be very prone to delaminating. My suggestion would be to print the enclosures on their sides, and change the mounting system to a flange with a strip of metal across it. This will spread the force across the print and all the layer lines will be running in their strongest direction. I have been running a 3D printed enclosure with a similar system for years and its still going strong even after many impacts and the whole thing is only held on with 4x M4 screws.
Thats awesome @Tony_Stark. I was thinking that by coating with Polyurethane wood finish that would help. How would I go about getting these metal strips?
I have epoxy coated parts with araldite to help prevent delamination but I haven’t tested enough to see how well it works so not sure on that one. With the metal strip it depends how fancy you wanna be. You could just cut some steel sheet with tin snips. If you wanted them a bit nicer you could get them waterjet or laser cut. If you can’t find anyone affordable to do that I can waterjet them for you out of aluminium or something
I think I want to add a dial to make sound profiles and led profiles / modes / presets for the lighting system / jarvis. I could have it dial to a full feature mode where I get all the jarvis voice feedback and led features or a quiet mode where only the rgb led patterns or a minimal mode where jarvis makes a noise on board startup and charging only. I don’t know how if these presets could work because the rgb led is also controlled by an app.
Idc if this will be too complicated to make and I’ll do it. If it’s not hard and takes little time, I might include extra buttons and make some easter eggs or something related to iron man!
I was thinking of extending my enclosure to fit my bms but the bms is too big. I’ll have to extend the balance wires and keep the bms and esc on top of rear truck, seperate from the cells at the bottom.
That’s a cool idea, would make the finish look cleaner and have the benefit of also acting as a screw retainer so they don’t come out. Obviously would make it annoying to service though
should I remove the extra tolerance I put with the indent in the bottom of the cover to ensure they dont come out? Then screw will be snug pressed. Probably wont add the covers till after a month of rides, to be sure I won’t need to open up the battery. It will also protect the screws from rust when I ride in the rain!