I have epoxy coated parts with araldite to help prevent delamination but I haven’t tested enough to see how well it works so not sure on that one. With the metal strip it depends how fancy you wanna be. You could just cut some steel sheet with tin snips. If you wanted them a bit nicer you could get them waterjet or laser cut. If you can’t find anyone affordable to do that I can waterjet them for you out of aluminium or something 
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I think I want to add a dial to make sound profiles and led profiles / modes / presets for the lighting system / jarvis. I could have it dial to a full feature mode where I get all the jarvis voice feedback and led features or a quiet mode where only the rgb led patterns or a minimal mode where jarvis makes a noise on board startup and charging only. I don’t know how if these presets could work because the rgb led is also controlled by an app.
Idc if this will be too complicated to make and I’ll do it. If it’s not hard and takes little time, I might include extra buttons and make some easter eggs or something related to iron man!
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Can’t wait to see this project completed!
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If i might give you a tip, make the eskate working first before doing all the fancy stuff. I learned that the hard way.
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Thanks
I was thinking of extending my enclosure to fit my bms but the bms is too big. I’ll have to extend the balance wires and keep the bms and esc on top of rear truck, seperate from the cells at the bottom.
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What do you think of me adding in a cover to hide the screws?
I added in about a 1-2mm gap at the edges of the cover and this gap will be filled with silicone caulking to hold the cover on
That’s a cool idea, would make the finish look cleaner and have the benefit of also acting as a screw retainer so they don’t come out. Obviously would make it annoying to service though
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should I remove the extra tolerance I put with the indent in the bottom of the cover to ensure they dont come out? Then screw will be snug pressed. Probably wont add the covers till after a month of rides, to be sure I won’t need to open up the battery. It will also protect the screws from rust when I ride in the rain!
I plan to have 3 holes in the sides, middle for balance wires, two sides for series connections with a tpu joiner in between each enclosure. I also want to put a cover to seal it. The tpu joiner and cover and enclosure will all be caulked. The cover has a 1mm indent around the edges for me to put caulking (blue lines). The connector needs to be at the very edge of the enclosure (open hole) otherwise the battery will not be removable from the enclosure and needs to be built in it.
Who wants to see a waterproof test?
You can make a lip-and-groove system and slide the connectors in, this will be even more waterproof.
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Hm idk that one is up to you
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Just realized you have a youtube channel. Helpful stuff!
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Haha yeah man! I just started up recently, planning to keep up my video every two weeks for now. Just moved so I’ve been incredibly busy. Next video should be up on Friday!
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I have an stl for a tpu cover case that fits this uni1 remote. I wish I had the 3df for the actual uni1 remote so I could remake it bigger with both of these inside. I will be remaking the tpu cover to wrap around both of these.
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I got a bunch of stuff today! the ubox feels great and it’s smaller than I thought. I’ll have no problem making an enclosure mount on the back truck.
I also got my 200 tesla cells today! This is the biggest component of this whole build 
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Is this okay? Can you help with these questions?
Also I want to put the wires between the battery enclosure and esc enclosure in these flexible tubes to make it waterproof. I may have to cut the tubes in half and have a gap if I keep the xt90s in between rather than inside the enclosures. When cut in half, I can 3d print a connector to join the halves with caulking. The wires will be moveable but the tubes they are put in are fixed to the enclosures and connecting with caulking so it is a waterproof shell around all the wires.
