the moment u plug in the the 16s battery into that 13s AS, its gonna pop. y not just sell it off if u r not using it, instead of…basically instant kill it
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There’s no other alternative way for me to get roll to start and auto shut off on my board? I’m
It’s weird that they say 60v but 13s when 14s 58.8V. That makes it seem to me like it’s a rough cut-off like their motors so it’s more like what boardnamics said about the FS 13s motors “I think Flipsky just tells people to run less voltage to reduce customer damage rates because 16s”. I also messaged flipsky yesterday on facebook and if I here from them that it’s okay or for sure it will fry immediately then I haven’t opened the packaging yet so I’ll sell it.
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For 16s roll to start? Ur best bet is stormcore100D
Motor works differently than AS or ESC, there is no MOSFET for u to pop in the motor, but there are in AS and ESC. That’s why it’s possible to go over the rating on motors but not AS or ESC
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Voltage will spike well above 60V in transient conditions.
12s/50.4v is the maximum safe option for components rated for 60V absolute max. This is to account both for manufacturing tolerances and voltage spikes longer than a few microseconds that don’t get filtered by any capacitor and reach the entire circuit.
In short, it will pop even at 13S. Not when you plug it in, but when you slam the brakes because you’re about to crash into a car. Don’t risk it, not worth it.
Stormcore 100D should be the closest thing to a high voltage roll to start option you can get
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Also keep in mind motors are just dumb components. In theory, and with enough cooling, you can connect that same motor to 3 phase 480V mains and it will spin. (No, don’t do it. Just no)
The only reason they are rated for only 13s is to limit the rpm within long service life levels. You can absolutely run it at 16, 20, even 22S, but when magnets explode because it’s spinning faster than a jet engine turbine, you should know why
Quick comparison:
Mosfet, led, diode, stm chip at over voltage: dead, never to work again
Resistor, motor, incandescent light bulb overvoltage: alive, but shorter life or overheating
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Thank you both for the explanation. I will sell it. I already ordered the ubox and the storm core is far out of my budget. Can I get this? I haven’t seen anyone talk about it. I am confused by it sorry for my incompetence but do I fill this with water? Lol there are these two ports on the right hand side - what are those?
The two tube thingy is for the water cooling loop, mainly for efoil and other water related device (I think I’ve seen someone use it in ebike as well). If u r only pulling little amps, then maybe the thermal mass alone will be able to handle it, but 100% not 200A at 16s without any cooling. It will probably work, but only probably
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It’s meant to have a watercooling loop, either closed system or straight from the pond the efoil is swimming in. Not really meant for esk8, but if you don’t intend to draw much current it will be ok. I recommend against it though
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jk, i don’t know, but i use speech to text quite a bit
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You wouldn’t happen to remember who?
So do I attach a loop to it and fill it with water? Though I have to be very careful because if that water spills it will mess up my other components. Actually since this goes in between my battery and esc. My battery will be at the bottom and esc mounted on the back truck so I’ll put this outide and in between the enclosures and it’s waterproof?
sorry i don’t, it was quite some time ago, not even on this forum
yes, but from a pc building standpoint, usually u will also need a pump and reservoir. i don’t know how much would that trasnlate to esk8 use, or if at all. I only know it has to be filled with water, mounting method / other required hardware I have no knowledge of. i don’t think i can help further on this matter
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My light panel is here! This will light up the arc reactor logo under the griptape.
Also my glue gun came 🖼 Pictures and Nothing Else! - #5555 by moddedlife
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Don’t forget the radiator, since all that heat soaked up by the water has to be dissipated somehow. That would probably be the tricky part on a board, since you need to get airflow to it yet protect it from rocks and stuff.
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I talked with flipsky and they said just to attach a pipe in a closed loop between two ends. I cannot add a pump.
This guy made an alarm that is sounded when the arduino is taken approx 10m away from the source beacons.
I want to add a beacon inside my esk8 remote and have it so that the arduino in my enclosure will sound the horn when my board is taken. The idea is I keep my phone and remote together in my bag safe with other bags. If someone tries to take my board it will sound the alarm because it is separated from my remote. Initially I was just going to have it trigger the horn with a mosfet controlled by the arduino but also controlled by the esc remote for use when riding
After seeing the video of how he made it play a .wav audio file, I want to use Jarvis’ voice to add voice effects to my board! Jarvis Ringtones - Free By Zedge™ Combine that with the arc reactor and I will have the board light up while jarvis is talking to me!
Additionally, I want to add sound effects for when the esc is turned on with flipsky RTS switch “ready for takeoff” and then others like using the accelerometer on the arduino not just for the break light but when I accelerate fast it can play a .wav like “entering hyperspeed” and maybe a new chime every 10km/hr increase.
Is anyone familiar with connecting beacons to arduino? This looks useful GitHub - sandeepmistry/arduino-nRF5: Arduino Core for Nordic Semiconductor nRF5 based boards and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dCtB0GFM_E That video has everything I need for the theft alarm but he uses “Adafruit Feather nRF52840 Express”, I want to use my arduino uno that will also control the other lights and such so I don’t have to have multiple arduinos. Alternatively, I could have the main arduino connected to the esc and/or controlled by a mosfet on the remote and then have this smaller lower power one connected to the battery to reduce the battery consumption. Also I will have a physical switch to turn off the arduino as it will be always on till the pack is empty and bms shutting it off. I will design the enclosure to have the physical switch concealed so a robber cant find it to turn off the alarm! Even though one arduino needs to be always on, its not much consumption with my massive battery pack.
He uses a usb ibeacon but I want to use this circular coin battery powered ibeacon device.
other iterations: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJnuRJ-noCA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F4tMvfXDSbU
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I have this remote 
and its transmitter which will connect to arduino to control the light mosfets and breaklight/led rgb strip
If I can use the remote as the beacon then I won’t have to make more room in my esk8 remote and won’t need this extra ibeacon device! This would be ideal.
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I found so many sound effects and they are crystal clear like its the original! This folder has 380 and theres one for charging/battery!
Plus more on that other link. here are a few if you want to listen (they open with vlc on my pc)caged_battery_charging_0.caf (50.2 KB) caged_battery_low_0.caf (25.3 KB) caged_battery_low_1.caf (38.1 KB) caged_battery_charged.caf (23.2 KB)
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Printing in the orientation you have shown will be very prone to delaminating. My suggestion would be to print the enclosures on their sides, and change the mounting system to a flange with a strip of metal across it. This will spread the force across the print and all the layer lines will be running in their strongest direction. I have been running a 3D printed enclosure with a similar system for years and its still going strong even after many impacts and the whole thing is only held on with 4x M4 screws.
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Thats awesome @Tony_Stark. I was thinking that by coating with Polyurethane wood finish that would help. How would I go about getting these metal strips?
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