Yeah idk it’s slightly possible that I could have caused it to come unsoldered inside from welding too many times in a row but that is unlikely because the battery wasn’t even that hot.
I think they are reliable for the most part. I’ve seen people do the ultra thin packs before, it’s a lot of work I think but it could work.
I am also pleased that they delivered already, they stayed within their quote of delivery time too, even during this pandemic and going from China to here. It was DHL
Here we go again. Got some more progress and purchases to report! First, I bought some random stuff I needed from Amazon today, washers, washers, bolts and some fishpaper ( I don’t feel like getting roasted for not putting fish paper and using Kapton… you know who you are )
Next thing on the list. I opened up my Panther battery in hopes of finding good news of a disconnected terminal, however, I was disappointed and met with 0 volts on the middle cell 
On one hand this is why I used Hobbyking’s RMA, on the other, I was really hoping I could fix it. That being said, if there is anyone that wants a panther battery to harvest two cells out of, PM me and we can work out a price for it and I’ll ship it your way.
After overcoming this disappointment and plugging in my new one to charge, I started working on other things. Since I received the pulleys from TB with the keys, I decided to test fit them. Unfortunately, I was met with a slight oversight - apparently, the shafts on the BKB motors here are pretty short and don’t actually protrude enough into the pulley to capture the setscrews on the end. @torqueboards do you know what size the in-belt grub screws are supposed to be? They look like M3 but it’s hard to tell.
Next thing on the list was to change out the connectors on the MakerX Go Foc Retro. Since the BKB motors use MR60 connectors, I figured I would keep with the clean look of them and change out the bullets on the vesc to match. I’m used to soldering 10AWG wire for most of my main wire runs but I used 12AWG for the motor phases since I had some this time and that’s what the vesc used to have on it. It solders quite nicely into the MR60’s, here’s some pics for yall.
The whole package at the back looks pretty nice, and @YUTW123 again I’m super happy with the small size of the dual ESC, it really saves me a lot of space in this build. I hope it will be able to hold up to the 12S that I’ll be feeding into it. I decided to set it up today with 9s using some lipos I had sitting around just to make sure that it worked but once the battery is done it will be running straight 12S.
I’ve got a lot of things left to do, but progress is progress, I will probably continue on my battery spot welding journey tomorrow with the new lipo from Hobbyking. After that, I’ve got the heatshrink that I’m still waiting for from Aliexpress that needs to get installed around the cells. I will need to plan out and drill all of the inserts into the deck, cut the insulation for the edges, drill holes in the enclosure, etc etc. Happy to see progress and I look forwards to riding this more every day
During setup today I used a VX1 I had laying around, but I will be using a different one for the final product.
More fun things arrived today (not really but I need them lol)
Inserts, screws, fish paper, and some washers. Apparently fender washers come tomorrow in a different box
Tiny update, last night I spot welded the rest of the second parallel set at 40J and it definitely seemed like they were less heat soaked, probably a better power level.
Today my blue fender washers arrived, can’t wait to see these on the build.
Also, this wasn’t planned before, but I’ve got a set of blue bergs on the way. I’ll be tossing those on this build as a swappable wheel set when I don’t want to use the 110’s. I’ve never ridden pnummies before, so I’m excited to try them out.
Well I have to say I am a little bit disappointed. Apparently, on Aliexpress, when they said width of the heatshrink tubing, they meant WIDTH not diameter…
So yeah… I guess it’s good that I got fishpaper.
So, width = width. 
Bro I swear I thought it was diameter. I looked at it for like one second when I pulled it out of the bag and I was like… There is no way 7p is fitting in there. Then I looked at it and I’m like yah that’s 80mm (sitting next to the 18650 it was pretty obvious)
So I went back and opened the ali express page and there it was, 80mm width. I guess I just thought that it would be more tubular, but no. Very disappoint.
I guess if I ever need to make a 3p pack I can use it… ughhhhhhhheugheihsfodlkfes
I if you don’t want the stuff I’ll happily use it on your behalf 
(I’m running low on wrap for 3p groups)
What cells you running 3p on? I can’t imagine getting enough amps out of 3p
Does 80mm fit a cell in opposite direction? Could be good for single stack p groups?
Halo Board mods, and a 2p P42A for a street cruiser
Hmm it’s not quite as bad as I thought. I was going to use it the way you are mentioning anyway - it appears it can fit a 5p in that direction.
Urgg
3p and 5p fit just fine
Oh I see. Guess that makes more sense. Halo Board huh there’s that many people with them?
I’m in the middle of one right now, there’s another guy who I think is interested in one too
I’m gonna do all the parallel group isolation and maybe some of the braided copper series connections tonight
Got around to welding some more stuff together tonight. Actually ran completely out of nickel. Apparently 10ft of nickel goes really fast. Got 6 P groups done with the 10ft worth, so I guess I need to buy some more before I can finish the other 6.
Everything is looking pretty good so far, but when I look at the welds from the side, they still look a little hot. I turned the welder all the way down to 39.2J and they look fine from the top, but from the side they look a little hot still. Maybe it’s just the lighting
Also hot tip (haha) the battery stays a lot cooler at 39J than at 50 and I put a fan over the battery and the XT connector and it only got a little warm this time instead of quite hot. I had to set down the electrodes a few times to let my hands cool down though, the fan helped with that too.
It’s possible that maybe I need to clean the electrode tips a little bit? Not sure what else would be causing the slightly brownish rings on the welds
The brown rings come from rapid oxidation at high temperature, its just an artifact of spot welding, but it is a little less with a clean electrode…in theory some steel wool would be perfect (I have been rubbing the tips together, but only for a moment…helps pass the time between welds)
Ah okay thanks that makes a lot of sense. I suppose I could just give them a touch between each set.
So in other words they look pretty decent then?
The welds themselves look fine to me, but the design and practice in general hurts…the square edges are still dangerous if they cut through the insulation between them and the next group or the deck, and the way you have the nickel will make a bottle neck for the current
What do you mean about the square edges between? How would you do it otherwise? There aren’t any square edges on the positive sides
I am going to be soldering in two positions across the series sets, so there won’t be a bottleneck when I’m done
