After several weeks of Fusion360 literally insta-crashing on my computer for literally no reason, I did something that I thought had no chance of fixing it. I uninstalled SonicStudio and SonicRadar (both preinstalled sound Asus programs from my mobo) and now, well, somehow Fusion is working again. Woohoo!
Anyway, I put together some quick CAD for my 7p layout to hold my cells while I weld them, and it came out nicely.
In combination with my broken Fusion360, my 3D printer decided that it didn’t want to work anymore too. Today I finally got around to messing with some of the wiring and re-plugging some things in, and I think it might have been some stepper wire issues. Not sure but I ran the wires for one of the steppers differently and it appears to be working again. As soon as this print for the cell holder finishes, I’ll check out the clearances and start glueing cells together in order to get welded.
Progress progress. Turns out that it takes longer to hot glue and voltage check cells than I thought. Almost completely done glueing sets of cells together. The 3D printed guides made this super easy, it would have taken way longer had I not been able to print them out.
When I actually weld the cells I’ll stick them in the guide again just to make sure I don’t accidentally break the hotglue off. I think the glue will hold just fine but I’d rather be careful. The little packages of cells look quite nice and I’m excited to get them all welded together. As I weld the cells I will need to consider how long to leave the tabs between the packs or if I should just cut off at the corners and solder straight onto the nickel above the spot welds.
I’ve seen a technique used by someone where they let the nickel hang long and then fold it back over and solder to the underside of the strip, which I might end up doing. In that case the long strip along the four cells would need to have additional length on both ends to fold over and solder to.
Well well well it is an exciting day! After dicking around with Fedex attempting to get my package delivered that was supposed to be delivered Monday for 4 days, I finally received my enclosure from @BigBen - it looks incredible and I’m glad I paid the premium to get this build the enclosure it deserves.
Thx Fedex for not knocking or ringing the doorbell on Monday and then claiming that my address was a business and no one lived there - ya that was cool thx
Damn she pretty. Can’t wait to get some more stuffs into this build. The finish on the enclosure is awesome and it feels really strong. It fits the hummie deck almost perfectly and has tons of room for my double stack battery.
Two packages in one day is really a fun time. Thanks @NatS for the good deal on these wheels and pullies. I may switch the 110 black 78a onto my other board so the blue ones can be on here or end up selling them later if I want to switch out to the 72a on the hummie. For now, these are perfect and came at a good price.
The @Boardnamics pullies look pretty nice, am curious to see how much of a spacer I will need to put on the rear hanger now. For normal TB218’s I think I put on a 0.5 inch spacer, I think it will be less for this due to the bearing pulley, which is totally fine by me.
Lol I’ve got one board thts 26.7 lbs and another that’s 24, I’m curious to see what this one comes out to
My high strand count silicon 12awg wire came in yesterday in the evening. I had decided there as plenty of space and that the wire was better suited for the task anyway
The main pack leads will still be 10awg but all the other series connections will be 12.
Just started spot welding my pack together today. I got about 1.5 p-groups into the pack before my Graphene pack decided to die. No idea what happened to it but it no longer outputs voltage. I submitted a hobbyking rma, if that doesn’t work I’ll have to fix it myself.
Anyway, here’s some pics of my current P group. Any advice is welcome, in addition, I have realized after looking closely that my welds are probably a little hot. I was welding at 49J on my kWeld, so I will probably turn it down a bit after my lipo is replaced / fixed.
Oh yeah thanks haha I started with tinsnips and that was just a bad time, so I ended up switching to scissors. It’s nice that nickel is so soft because it doesn’t damage the steel scissor blades
Your welds are too powerful; if you can you should lower the power / weld time a bit. There should barely be any burn marks, and definitely not holes punched through like that. I mean it might work, but I would experiment ripping the nickel off with pliers to see how well it holds.
Yeah I got some advice in the battery builders thread too. None of them are punched through, and the welds are very strong. I had this set at 49j on the kWeld but I’m going to turn it down to 40 and see how that does when I get my hobbyking RMA response
Edit: This is great. \o/ Hobbyking is just straight up sending me a replacement! This means that if I fix my current one, I will have two! Great either way though because now I will still have one with warranty that’s brand new.
Got my replacement battery from hobbyking, hopefully I can fix the old one now and have two. Good to know that I have a new one that’s still covered under warranty though. I also got my BMS from LTT power. Looks like it took a week and 2 days with the expedited shipping. Not bad at all. I think it’s pretty cool that they include the bluetooth module AND two temperature probes
I also got my pulleys for my motors, probably will have to cut down the keys a little bit but they should work just fine. Now that I’ve got all this, I have almost everything to complete this build, minus the Metr pro, the remote, and the charger.
