Dooooo eeeeet.
/edit Glad it didn’t affect you much mentally.
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Haha the only concern is removing them for maintenance if they need it, but I would rather have a harder time then if I needed to for some reason and not have rattling now.
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Also remember rattling means vibration, which is the enemy of reliability.
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Exactly, I’m going to open it up tomorrow. I think part of it is the MakerX heatsink hitting my enclosure, the screws all around still need more loctite too somehow. I’ve already re-applied it twice, but they keep eating it up.
The other part may be the batteries hitting the deck through the thin foam layer I put in
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Your board looks sick by the way, can’t wait for mine to arrive. I don’t know why it took me this long to arrive at this place. That is, a wide longboard with microdrop and big thane.
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Thank you! I love how it turned out. It’s the perfect deck for me, great foot stance, nice and wide, super comfortable.
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Oof, i hope you are okay. I think im running two caliber 44 baseplates with boardnamics 220s and purple nipples on a loaded vanguard, been very stable at 50km/h (its only 10s so it does not go faster) it steers well, but 180 degree turns are very hard.
Hope you are not too afraid rn, some roadrash is part of the fun 
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Thanks haha yeah I will most likely be switching my rear baseplate to a 40 degree or 35 degree one for more stability in the future.
I’m actually totally fine, just recovering from some of the scrapes still. The one on my hip is particularly annoying lol
I’m not too afraid, I just don’t want to go much over 25 with the setup as it is right now. Fortunately that is enough for most of the rides I go on currently.
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I was running caliber 44’ base plates in the front and back on my first build. Got speed wobbles constantly. When I switched to SR trucks I decided to try split angle baseplates. I’m running 50’ in the front and 35’ in the back. Needed a small riser to get the two trucks to sit at identical heights. It’s been by far the most stable setup that I’ve ever had. Since then I’ve been able to loosen up the trucks to carve harder. No speed wobbles, even at my fastest speed (around 32 mph).
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Nice! The only downside for me of going to a shallower angle in the back is I’d have to switch to top mount, which isn’t the end of the world but it completely changes the style
Got another ride in yesterday, bring the total on the board up to 23 miles on one charge. Had a pretty good time. Definitely felt some weird wobbling from the trucks, I just don’t think these bushings are meant to have long trucks and weight on them, so I’m excited to get my Riptide ones sometime this week.
I recorded on Relive for the first time too for fun
I also recorded on metr, and had more issues, similar to last time. It recorded the first 5.95 miles of the ride seemingly with no issues. I think it must have stopped recording when I took some pictures? I’m not really sure. I then started it again and it only recorded for 0.39 miles. Then I guess I was riding for a while without it recording, and didn’t notice till close to the end. Then at the end I recorded another mile. Seriously not sure what is going on here, but it’s pretty annoying having to try and guess when it’s gonna stop recording.
@abusfullofnuns @drone001 It seems like you were having similar issues?
I have an external antenna inside my enclosure, so I don’t think it’s a bluetooth issue, but who knows. Sorry to tag you again @rpasichnyk but any ideas? Any troubleshooting I should do
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Automatic is definitely enabled. It looks like the stop delay is set as you have it there. Start delay is 10, stop delay is 1800 (1800 seconds is 30 minutes?) I only stopped for about 5 minutes max.
I have my pause delay set at 7 seconds
The difference between first record end and second record start is just 2 minutes. I don’t think it stopped recording automatically. Can it be that app crashed?
I actually happened to open the app again to check it two minutes after the first recording stopped, I suppose it is possible the app crashed but I have a Galaxy S10+ with plenty of ram and I don’t usually have any app crashing issues.
When I opened the app, the screen was unresponsive, and the activity blinker was not blinking at all. Since it wasn’t doing anything, I restarted the app.
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Can you navigate with a file manager to metr documents directory and find log file for that day? It should have filename similar to log_2020-08-11.txt. Please send it to support@metr.at
Well well well. It’s time for an update, boys. I’m happy to say that I’m still just as proud and feel just as accomplished almost 100 miles of riding into this board as I was when I first “finished” it. I love everything about this board, it’s one of the most planted, stable, and comfortable boards I’ve ever ridden and it’s just a really fun board to ride.
I record every ride on Strava and Metr, so if you wanna follow my @, go to the Strava thread.
While I’d like to say that my board has been perfect, that would be lying. However, the issues I’ve had are very mostly minor. The first thing I’ve found is something that I expected. This board is super low. However, that’s awesome for riding. I do not scrape very often, but speed bumps are definitely not something that I can gracefully traverse. I’ve tried to keep the underside of the board unscathed, but it’s gotten some war wounds. Nothing too crazy, and I expected it to happen, but it ain’t new anymore.
The other issue is more serious. Bout two weeks ago I was riding with @KaramQ, blazing along, enjoying a nice 85 degree day, and I ran smack into something I’d never encountered before. Thermal throttling. “Wait what?? Don’t you have a heatsink on your esc?” -You might say. And to that, I would answer, yes. I do. Why would you thermal throttle? For reference, I am running the @YUTW123 MakerX GoFoc Retro, FW V3.62, UART control, 12s. When this throttling happened I was running 50 battery amps per side, and 55 motor amps per side; completely reasonable.
Who knows. Somehow, whether it be through Metr modes, or through an accident in Vesc programming, my thermal cutoffs on my Vescs were changed to start at 60C and end at 70C. While I was out on the ride, it was very perplexing, my board sort of just slowly went dead, until the motors would barely draw one amp of current from the battery. While we were out, I tried to diagnose it, and sat down for a while, opening up my enclosure on the side of a back road. During this time, the Vesc did cool down a bit, and it came back to life enough to the next spot we were going to.
We stopped at that next spot for quite some time and the Vesc was able to cool down all the way to somewhere around 45C. When it was time to ride home, I had about 5 miles to go, and it JUST made it home, hitting thermal cutoff lightly on a hill near my house.
I read around on the forum a bit, trying to find thermal cutoff numbers, because after observing the Metr logs, I could tell that it was indeed cutting power around 60C. I shot a message to @taz who informed me of some numbers that sounded better than what I have.
As it stands, I intend to set my thermal cutoff numbers to 85C start, 100C end, as someone else said in a thread that I can’t remember, as well as @taz suggested. I think these are supposed to be the defaults. Here’s the metr logs from that ride. There are several parts where you can tell that the vesc thermal throttled. The reason it’s broken up is because I did turn off my board multiple times trying to diagnose it.
There would be Metr logs here, but it seems I have run into the glitch where you can’t upload the logs. @rpasichnyk do you know what the fix for that is? I’m on app version 4.5.18
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Here’s a little teaser for the headlight / tail light project that I’ve been working on for this board
@Venom121212 and @Flasher were murmuring about the wiring of this setup in the pictures replies thread, so I’ll detail it a bit.
I actually read the schematic incorrectly on the Maytech user guide, which ended up with my shorting 12v across the receiver, which blew up the switching transistor and caused the forwards UART function to no longer work.
$57 and four days later, I have a new receiver. With the new receiver I was sure to wire it correctly. This is how I did it. Please appreciate my gorgeous MS Paint drawing.
This works perfectly and I have no problem drawing the current I need at 12V to power my LED diodes at 3.3v, 1.25a
I’ll detail my design and other information later, don’t feel like writing it up right now
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Well I’ve got more updates boys. I’ve undergone an upgrade or two and some changes in the build, all of which have been great fun. This build has been “done” for a while now but I like to switch things out and try out different wheels from time to time.
This is definitely my best build to date and I can’t even put a number on how much time I’ve put into this, and one of the best parts of this build is that it’s pretty easy to make drivetrain changes. That being said, I did finally get around to putting on my Bergmeister wheels and tires to try them out. Long story short, they’re terrible and awesome at the same time. Let me explain. This was my first experience with pnummies so I wasn’t sure exactly what to expect. I knew that the ride was going to be super comfortable, and I knew that I should expect 24-30 wh/mile of consumption compared to the 14wh/mile on my urethane wheels.
I did not expect the wobbles. Two of my Bergmeister tires came totally wobbly. The wobbles were manageable up until about 22-25mph. After that, it felt pretty sketchy. I tried numerous things to try and get them to balance out, but to no avail. I really enjoyed riding them though and I was determined to make them work. After riding the wobbly tires for 50 to 70 miles or so I decided to switch out the two worst ones for my clever 6" tires that I had sitting around and hadn’t gotten around to using yet. I ended up going with the setup where the two rear tires are the clever ones and the two fronts are the non-wobbly Bergmeisters. I like how the Bergmeister ones ride and they have slightly less contact patch than the clevers.
I personally think having the clevers on the back looks great, and they work really well in my experience so far with the Bergmeister hubs. Some people have said that the experience some wheel shift because the ID of the clever wheels is too big, but mine are good. Mine do not wobble at all in my experience so far.
I think the build looks awesome with the pnummies and I’ve been pretty spoiled by how well they run. The ride is super comfortable and nothing feels quite like mashing the throttle on pnummies. You don’t really know until you experience it.
The other upgrade that I made was from my 6355 BKB motors up to the new Flipsky 6374 motors. These have been running for about 50 miles now and I’m impressed with their performance. They run great and I’ve got a higher limit at which I can throw amps into them. Unfortunately, this has lead me to discover how severely the Go-Foc Retro thermal throttles. With pnummies and the new motors, it will only take two or three major hills at speed to heat soak the ESC. I have my thermal limit set at cutoff start at 85. I’m wary about going higher than that with my internal mounted VESC. I am thinking that I may bite the bullet and figure out how to mount the ESC so that the heatsink fins stick out into the air. This may be the only solution to my overheating issue.
The last ride picture up there was taken on my range test of the board. A fateful test. A painful test. You don’t know how annoying pnummies can be until your battery runs out 1.5 miles from home on a hill. I just overestimated my range on the ride and ended up walking the end of it. Well, at least I know what my range is now. My range on the 12s7p of “salvage” Samsung 30Q cells is officially 23 miles before it becomes unusable. That was starting at a charge per cell of 4.15v and ending at 3.2v. Here’s the Metr and Strava rides for those curious. If you inspect the ride closely, you can see my ESC bouncing off of thermal limit pretty frequently. It really is annoying getting halfway up a hill and having to stop and wait for the ESC to cool down.
Overlooking the battery running out, the ride was awesome and really was probably the thing that spoiled me on pnuematics. The ability to just glide onto a gravel or dirt trail is pretty awesome and all the concrete cracks fade away into nothing.
One last thing, I did end up finishing off my headlight build and it’s been holding strong on the front of my board for over 100 miles now. The ms paint schematic that I drew up there is the basics of it. If anyone wants to re-create it, I can explain it a bit more. In the module with the lights, I have the smaller buck converter that drives the LEDs. I found a good balance of the current so that the LEDs won’t overheat while riding. I wouldn’t run it if it was hot out but when riding at night time the lights have no issues staying cool. I used thermal paste when mounting the diodes into the heatsinks to make sure that they were fully utilized. The lights really make a huge difference riding in the dark, I can actually fully see where I’m going. More importantly, it makes me very obvious to other vehicles and persons on the road. Here’s a short vid of my friend riding my board with the lights on!
To summarize. This build is awesome. The ability to switch out wheels on the fly with the idler’s and massive range in the pack make it just an awesome thing to ride. I ride it whenever I can and I can’t wait until summer comes around and I can ride it after working a full day. I’ll leave you with two pics of myself and by Fiance on our ride the other day.
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