You can use the regular VESC tool app always on any VESC base escs.
The only thing that might be and is in this case different is the FW. So if you want to upload FW, you need the custom FW file. Still can use the regular VESC tool app to upload that file.
3 Likes
I thought there was always bugs if you did…part of why some guys are blowing theirs up
3 Likes
as I understand it most of the popped uboxes are the result of incorrect firmware uploads
1 Like
I stand corrected, thank you for the clarification guys. 
Cool, could you I then run motor configuration or input control through another BLE module or Robogotchi? That would make it nice to have a back up puck in my bag for in case the OSRR has a failure. Which as happened a could times lately.
This is spintend covering their ass. They were dying because of shit QC
5 Likes
Okay downgraded to tool 300 and fw 5.2
now one motor spinns up when I puch remote. and no errors. Is there a “send data” parameter I can´t get my eyes on in the tool?
you’re probably right, but I’ve def seen a few stories of people realizing they used the wrong fw and popping during motor detection
1 Like
Found it, Thanks for the help
Idk man, I feel like there would have been more “documented” incidents if that was really the problem.
4 Likes
Does anyone happen to know what type of JST plug is used for the horn/light connectors on the V1? I know for a fact it’s not JST-XH and looks smaller, but that’s about it. I’m guessing they’re PH?
yes
1 Like
10awg wire can handle 150A for several minutes ! and nobody use this kind of power 
for a esk8, only time you can get this power is for 1-2 or seconds so don’t worry , sure you can use 8awg but its a bit overkill but yes it will get less heat because the electron’s is flowing with less resistance in a bigger wire
but again it depend on lot of thing , if they use tined copper or aluminium , etc,…
3 Likes
Just wondering if anyone’s made heatsinks for the spintend 75V unit yet, as i’m currently working on making one for myself.
Current plan for myself is to replace the top cover with a sheet of copper, and place thermal pads between that and the topside ESC to help reduce temps there, and to attach the bottomside to another plate of copper for the increased thermal mass there. Anyone else have any suggestions?
2 Likes
**I thought aluminium is better for cooling
Copper is nearly twice as thermally conductive as aluminum, but it’s expensive and heavy so you don’t usually see them that often when aluminum is good enough for most intents and purposes.
3 Likes
Copper is significantly better at thermal conductivity and pure thermal mass, it’s just more expensive - it’s why things like the cold plate of higher end CPU coolers are made of copper, while the fins are aluminum.
1 Like
yes copper is conductive mean more electron flowing better , but if we talk about heat dissipation copper is only 40% better
1 Like