sweet welcome to the wand team, enjoy ur telemetry and live temp readouts fam
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If you use higher voltage, it can reach 7000W/single in theory, total 14000W, why still need bigger current? 
Does anyone have this? (the Ubox 75v/200a)
Is it reliable and tested? I will probably run it on 12s so nothing too crazy but I want to make sure that it’s reliable before purchasing it.
How does it compare to the Unity / Flipsky 6.6+ (old big version) / Stormcore?
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It’s a good ESC with unique features. A few units blew up with passion but they’re mostly good. Kaly uses a modified version of these in their boards too. Better than a flipsky 6.6/unity for sure. It’s a thick boi, as it has a thick heatsink
Had a usable warranty too
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Thanks for the info. Got a couple more questions:
How would it compare to the DV6? - Go-FOC DV6 3-12S Dual 120A ESC for electric Skateboard Base On VESC6 - MakerX
And how’s the shipping time on it?
As far as remotes go - can you use a Flipsky VX1 or VX2 on it?
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shipping time for both companies is abt 3 weeks.
I actually had the dv6 and it performed great. Theyre both good escs, but the spintend has an antispark built in as well as the option to have a horn and lights powered directly off of the ESC. Any uart/ppm remote works on either esc.
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Is there a way to toggle on/off the internal CAN connection without using the UNI remote?
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Well, you didn’t ask another important factor IMHO:
Who offers better customer service? For my money, John/Spintend wins this hands down.
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You can change settings with power button press sequences, but not sure about CAN.
simply put all of those are shit or worse than Ubox. There is nothing on the market that beats Ubox at this price and size with 130amps phase per motor and up to 110 battery current on each. ALMOST no one can ever get that beast to throttle due to fet temp 
its super efficient and strong. Also only VERY few has failed for no reason - likely solder balls from soldering near by without protection lol.
don’t look any further if you need VESC and 120-130a phase is enough for you. (to be clear my front wheel spins through at 80amps a bit and at 90a every time almost haha
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so true, not one person was let down, at least I have not seen any ANY one complain about spintend customer service or their Ubox - more like opposite I have seen some one burn 3 UBOX one after another one, and spintend was like " come on dude… you clearly messed up some where to burn 3 on the first plug in. Not are we can send 3rd free replacement for you just to burn it again"
Love you Spintend 
I wonder, where does company name come from?
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can someone link the file of how to fix the old spintend with those foam strip thingies?
thanks
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sure
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thanks
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I’m installing kalys custom Ubox on a friends kaly 40… anyone certain which firmware I should load on it? Also I’m guessing same settings as suggested before for the motor/battery currents, regens, and throttle curve?
Any difference in programming the Ubox vs other controllers? I’m also adding a metr to it, any special tricks to get that working properly?
Lastly he has a Hoyt puck so I assume setting that up is the same procedure as any other esc?
Thanks in advance y’all?
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I would email @Kaly or @AmySpintend to check. I would bet the custom FW on the site is good. Not sure if anything but voltage readout was wrong.
No difference in setup since you’re not using the Spin remote. The firmware choice is now simplified to “Micro USB” and “USB C” on the product page.
Does this come with the foam fix already in place?