The Box can connect via BT directly to the VESC mobile app?
Anyone know how much current the headlight pins can carry?
Yep, just make sure you have the UART channel clear on the remote. You can only have one thing connected at a time.
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Product description says that light and horn together must be 3A or less.
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Correct. I have my positive wire connect to 12v part of the esc and my negative wire on the “light”. My horn just is connecter on the left two pins. Here is a horrible render!!!
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As connector on esc only has 3 amps shared for set of lights (single light Max 0.6A) and a horn (which I will be using as well). I want to have an option to connect more lights (rear light, maybe some led strips) and 3 amps are not enough. This is why this additional Converter to 12V is needed - for more amps.
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Does anyone have an idea how to bypass the Ubox antispark switch?
Shorting switch pins doesn’t do the trick…
I would like to use loop key or a flipsky antispark. But Ubox won’t boot that way. It shuts down after a second.
On the other hand. If I insert loop key and then short pins on Ubox switch it powers up just fine…
@Gamer43 any ideas?
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You have to do this to use the flipsky antispark? Do you have the older ubox antispark or new one? The new one is where there isn’t a device it’s just the xt90s connector right? That shouldn’t be a problem to have xt90s and flipsky antispark both connected?
If it’s the one with the integrated receiver and remote, use the remote to change the power switch mode from momentary to latching under Receiver Config and then whenever the pins are shorted, it will be on.
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It is. But I am not using that remote… I check manual anyway
Is the anti spark needed with a spinted?
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No but I’m adding it for roll to start
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I had no clue that wasn’t a feature already available. I thought it was more of a vesc software feature that came from the 5.x release.Super noob over here. 
Yup. It’s the old one.
Anyways, DON’T ADD FLIPSKY ANTISPARK WITH UBOX ANTISPARK IN SERIES.
I did. It worked with roll to start a couple of times, but eventually it busted the flipsky antispark as well. It’s dead now. Luckily the esc is stil fine (besides not be able to turn it off, but that was an known issue before adding other antispark)
So now I need to find a solution to change switch of Ubox from momentarily to latching (will this bypass antispark at all?) but without remote or any other way to completely bypass Ubox antispark. Anyone have a clue if that’s possible?
Also i would like to thank @Gamer43 for helping me out over DMs, you are a legend 
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Why not just a loopkey? That’s how I switch mine on/off.
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Because of the looks, I have no nice place to put it on… I know, I know. I am an idiot, but that’s how my brain work…
I will use loop key if everything else fails 
But there has to be a way to bypass ubox antispark. I will take it apart and resolder main leads if its needed.
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do we have some nice pics of the PCB to draw on?
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I could take some tonight
Why did the FS antispark break?
This is what @Gamer43 told me
"Sounds like it’s busted
The UBox probably tried to do some things while the antispark was ramping up the output voltage and it probably ended up destroying the gate driver IC on the antispark
generally antisparks don’t play nice with each other because they’re each trying to manipulate voltages"
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