You can try setting HFI mode…
There is a YouTube link explaining that. Basically hfi should be smooth as sensored start just a bit more loud at start
You can try setting HFI mode…
There is a YouTube link explaining that. Basically hfi should be smooth as sensored start just a bit more loud at start
Sound good
Use sensors
I did read about hfi but after the mess I’ve made of setup so far I’m a bit worry about doing it. Is it pretty straightforward?
I will get some better sensored motors soon. Just wanted to see what I could do to make it run better now.
There are a few things to improve 0km/h power levels
First would be to use a higher Kv motor and a higher gear ratio
Second would be to use HFI
Thanks, I will look at getting some new sensorsed motors soon anyway. Just want to see if these can run better in the mean time.
How easy is hfi to setup?
Also I was wondering if raising the power could help as it runs fine with out me on it.
So what have you set up for battery and motor current limits?
Without not knowing what exactly battery and motors are you using Noone here can help you with the numbers.
Can you send exact battery and motors specification ?
The battery is only 10s4p Samsung 35e. It just one I already had. I’ll be making a much better pack at some point. I’ve got motor amps set at 50a each battery max at 16a.
First would be to use a sensored motor*
Sensors, god how i miss them cant stand riding sensorless motors rn
If you don’t mind more frequent failures…
A failed sensor just bring you back to no sensors which is where you are. So it’s smooth and then it breaks and then it’s fine also. So chillax dude, riding sensored works for 99.9% of riders.
Only if you want to program your ESC on the side of the road.
Yeah that’s fine to do when it breaks, which in my experience is like maybe once a year. For the rest of the year I start from 0mph perfectly smoothly the same way every time on every hill. Lots of ups for very little down, almost no downside if you don’t ride in the rain.
Anyone reading this just know that Brian treats his boards very very very rough and he is not your typical rider.
Also, changing to HFI or sensorless takes 30 seconds with the vesc tool app over BT.
Just had another another go at set up running bldc, sets of much better now and I don’t mine the extra noise. Thanks again everyone for the help it’s really appreciated.
Depends on if you need higher than 12s
any one has a good project or want to co develop an ESP32 based “VESC co-pilot”?
Planned futures
ALARM MODE
siren trigger line
GYRO
GPS tracking
SIM card for internet access
Push notification to phone up on motion detection
Max motor breaking (lock) during ALARM trigger
Display for scooter 2.2inch
Telemetry to Display
break lamp control
Street Legal Mode (disables one motor, disables mode switch input, sets VESC into mode 1 which is pre set to have legal speed and power output - enabled by 5 times break trigger in 7sec, than can be changed back only by Phone)
Street legal mode is stored in non volatile memory, so even reboot won’t exit it
ADC filter (instead of stand alone adapter)
dual VESC support
= I’m the tech guy, but only 25% good enough programmer to get those all coded together, so need more people to join me on that project.
@hardunclejohn
Maximum value “Motor Current MAX” and “Absolute Maximum Current” are hardcoded in your “VESC_UBOX_3.3V_100A_FW5.2.bin” ???
This should have a default set for the hardware. Set this to the maximum it will allow you to set it to.
You should 100% adjust this depending on your motor.