ah ok. yeh I saw the coupled motor leads go into the buckets, but not sure what it was used there.
Ah ok so the 60A is motor Amp. Ah I gave for fact that he highlighted the battery amp. Well then 25A each side is a bit low for a loaded test. I thought was 60A each side battery and that would have been great already. We’ll see.
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Hello! What’s the dimensions on this beast?
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thanks @hardunclejohn I am nervous about new vendors with new VESCs, pardon my questioning.
One of you guinea pigs lemme know when you get your VESCs and ride before I order plz
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From the website
- Size and weight: 145 x 83x25mm / 396g
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Ok the new version without antisparks will be prepared about 15th Sep., we will deliver the package to you at that time, is it ok?
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All good for me.
Out of curiosity, In case in the units with antispark included. If you do not connect the switch then the circuit is just skipped or it won’t turn on?
Because in that case the presence of an integrated antisparks system won’t change anything if I use the loop key only. Is it right?
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That’s a very good question, which would be interesting for me too.
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I asked for clarification of the antispark circuit via email. He said it can be bypassed by simply shorting the pins.
Some extra info for those interested
You can order an external remote receiver for 18 dollars if you want to use the remote with another motor controller
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This is what I got regarding the antisparks:
"
Dear Alessio,
This is Aileen from Spintend, hope you have a good day!
Now I am writing to answer your question about antispark.
Anitspark working process is as below:
1.Plug in the battery, electrolytic capacitor is slowly charged through a resister;
2.Press power button to boot, 12V power supply beging to work;
3.12V power turn on the Mosfet for antispark circuit, bypass the charge resistor.
So if don’t connect the switch , the controller doesn’t turn on; if use loop key, when plug in the battery , 12V power will work at once, the mosfet for antispark will be conducted at the same time, the capacitor charging is skipped , it means the antispark function lose efficasy.
Thanks for you support and any question pls feel free to contact me.
Best regards,
Aileen"
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if by shorting the pins you do not risk anything on the controller while using the external loop key. then is better to keep the antisparks circuit so you have a potential added feature that you can decide to use or not.
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Haha similar to what I got but slightly different.
- Regarding the switch(power swtich), the electronic circuit is indepent of VESC (the default is momentary), if you don’t want to use this way or you want to use bypass function, there are two ways: short circuit switch signal or use latching switch.
4.Power switch function is achieved by controlling internal 12V power, but inrush management is achieved by anti-sparking circuit, they are independent of each other.
I’m of the same mind I’d rather have the antispark system on there and bypass it if I wanted to vs just not having it at all.
Also the power button flashes while binding to the receiver and stuff so that’s pretty handy as well.
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brine is my guess LoL
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My point was exactly that. If the antisparks circuit can be baypassed without conseguence to the ESC then I am ok with having it.
@John-Spintend do you think there is any problem with bypassing the inbuilt antispaks (for instance by shorting the pins) and use an external loop key? Or do you think is overall better to just remove the circuit and use an external antisparks? Becuase the idea of have it as optional function can be usefull for some.
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I see water indeed.
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@rey8801
@Gamer43
@Andy87
Consider many friends have many questions on Ubox antispark and switch circuit. I publish the design circuit in FAQ list(refer to Question4) , and also some questions on UART port with receiver and bluetooth(refer to question6) , and also the quesions on control light and horn (refer to question 7&8), and refer to get canbus turn on /off (refer to question5). Here is FAQ list: https://spintend.com/pages/faq
For any other questions if you have, please drop me email: spintend@outlook.com
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thanks! love the FAQs, makes it so clear.
For the Ubox and remote I ordered I am fine with antisparks replace it. In case you change idea and decide to keep it, that is fine too. I won’t use the internal one anyway
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Hey even though the antispark circuit is untested. I’d rather see it removed because of it being a failure point than removed because people don’t want to use it.
I’d also prefer for some long term testing to be done before removing the integrated switch as its honestly quite nice addition.
There’s definitely been a lot of antispark switch failures over the years so people moved to other alternatives and tend to shy away from using them still, even when there are designs that don’t fail.
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TBH the most elegant solution is a low power mode where you put the MCU in STOP mode with RAM retention and disable power to external devices.
You still want to supply the gate drivers because they actively pull down the MOSFET gates and keep them disabled. This is for safety since the power rail is still energized.
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