Soldering battery leads.

Any tips on soldering those xt60’s or 90’s ?


Here’s my set up

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why not 20’s 50’s 100’s

xt60/xt90 I think?

I’ll edit

when soldering the male (the ones with the freestanding pins) make sure you plug them into another connector, or as you solder it the base of the connector will belt and misalign the pins so they no longer plug in. Don’t forget to put the shrink wrap on before you solder a loop.
Use XT90-S for battery output, always

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  1. Flood the joints on the connector with solder and be sure to let the heat transfer through the solder until it melts onto the connector. (You can see it happen)

  2. Flood the tip of the wires that you wish to connect with solder and heat until it wicks down INTO the wire.

  3. Now use your helping hands to hold the wire and connector together at the desired angle and simply heat the tip of the wire with your soldering iron until all the solder melts and the two pieces become one .

  4. More solder until the joint is thoroughly flooded.

  5. Give it a good tug when it cools. It should hold.

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Yeah. I’m burnt a battery that way. It sorted out when I pushed the second part on then plugged in the battery

Not the main topic but do your xt60s have xt60 written on both sides? The color judging by just the picture reminds me of the fake ones.

E: i think you have fake ones

Amazon. I have the yellow ones too. The ones with the green stripe. I’ll double check those. Are they faulty?

the xt90 with a green stripe is the “anti spark” xt90s. I’m not aware of any fakes.

The fake xt60 technically are fine (I’ve used fake xt60 and 90 for a long time) but eventually replaced every single one just to be safe since the fakes ones sometimes are a bit sketch when/after soldering.

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This might help ^^

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Before removing the insulation. Keeps it from expanding. I twist. Thanks. My twist is probably what caused the short

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Top fake
bottom real

(bad lighting, does not represent true colors)

Where can I order the real ones from?

I’ve ordered genuine, Amass connectors from Amazon, otherwise Hobby King might be a good option.

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You sure Doc Oc over there can’t give you some tips? :eyes:

#badjoke

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Just the tip

I’ve bought these, they are real, and come with nice precut heatshrink.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07233RVL6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I thought there was a fake XT60 connector that plagued many Ender 3s. I thought they were melting and starting fires or something. Only like 15A load max too.

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There was. My xt60 also got hot so I’ve replaced it with a xt90…that turned out to be fake as well :smiley:

Still goes strong though.