Nah. It’s nice though
Fiberglass is a much more superior substance in durability and overall multi-directional strength.
To be fair, I would say that 3D printed enclosures came before some of the nicer ones we have today haha
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I am currenty fiberglass reinforcing that enclosure… should look good and be sturdy.
Stl? Or better yet 3df
Enclosure for a new build using a Lush Throttle deck using Lipos. Currently vacuum wrapped in carbon for the next 48h.
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Hello, as @Balta_6 asked for my enclosure files, here is version 1.
I will update this in the coming weeks with an updated design, as light cracks can appear around the bolt holes at the moment. I recommend reinforcing those spots with fiberglass / epoxy.
Part 1 can be printed twice instead of part 4, if you don’t want the holes for the XT90 loopkey, esc switch etc.
https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/65930-skateshred-b41-enclosure
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Are you all printing these flat bottom, or actually measuring the curvature of the intended deck and modeling to match?
I’ve also considered the brute force method - print flat, tape sand paper to deck, rub until matched (poor man’s match lapping)
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Yes. I can only imagine 
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does anyone know the hole spacing for the V1 boosted deck? I have one on the way but I have no idea where to place the holes on the encolure. That and Idk what the curvature is like so I just eyeballed it
I’d just print solid and drill the holes in later.
An alternative is to print small holes with the printer and use them as a starting point for a correct sized drill bit. Then you don’t need to measure or mark out locations and the drill bit won’t wonder on you. 3D printed objects are easy to drill through as well.
CA Glue and Activator is a great way to quickly join together 3D printed pieces. I also glob it in areas if the 3D print hasn’t worked so well… especially if you going to cover it with fiber glass or carbon fiber.
I did some carbon skinning on expanded PVC as I was struggling with the 3D printer. But I think it’s probably just as easy on a 3D printed object. Maybe a little cleaner than fiberglass? After two coats of epoxy the carbon skinning seems plenty strong for an E Sk8 enclosure.
FWIW, I’ve been using CA glue and activator on the Raft layer to ensure the 3D print bonds with the glass. Cover the glass with blue printers tape first 
I printed this in PETG. Not sure who originally made the STL for it, but I cut it into 3 parts in Shapr3D.
Excuse the messy print, it was a first try on that material and first enclosure I’ve done. I don’t like the gyroid infill artifact that shows on the surface.
Will reprint middle segment.
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wich dimensions have your enclosure?
I used photogammetry to make an enclosure that fits the landyachtz switchblade 40 almost perfect and that is pretty sleek. Printed out of 5 segments, lets see how it holds.
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Looks great 
Any tips for the photogrammetry part of the process? I’ve heard even lighting is the most important. Picking up the contours on an almost flat surface seems the challenging part
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With what material did you fit them together?
I epoxied them together. I did that once on another segmented 3d printed enclosure and it held up well so far.
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It’s my first time doing any 3d modeling work, so it’s far from great. The motivation was the clearance, since the magnum wheels and the drop of the LY switchblade don’t offer much space to work with.
Something like this was already enough to make a pretty good model. I used Agisoft Metashape trial edition, it is very easy. Even with just 2-3 pictures it can generate a decent model.
Funny story: Every time I generated a model, it was slightly curved / crooked. Like the board model had a horizontal twist to it. Hence why I tried retaking photos and redoing the process many times. Only later I realized that the algorithm was doing it’s job perfectly, and that the ACTUAL deck had this twist. 
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haha, impressive that the software is so capable. Will give the Agisoft one a go then
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