Bad. Ass.
Killing it dude!
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That Is a TANK!! it looks really nice, great work!!!
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Thanks! Quite lightweight for a tank. Definitely forgetting about the battery in a backpack idea for the foreseeable future lol
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I use an DIY electric mountain for downhill and I prefer to have my battery in my back pack for weight distribution. I use 3 break out points with fuses in case I fall or just get off my bike and forget about the battery and just rip it. I’m really interested about these nese packs. What is holding the cells tight together? Is it the neoprene style material on the back of the strip or the screws somehow? Thanks
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Yeah, there’s neopreme behind the nickel coated copper tabs that hold the cells tight. But it looks like it might not be tight enough. I’m reconsidering using NESE for this now, since the vibrations while riding on uneven ground are definitely more extreme than what I felt on my urethane street build 
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I’ve decided to not go with a 12s6p NESE. See the discussion in my other build-thread about the arcing issues I’ve experienced:
Also, some of the salvaged 40T cells I bought from Nkon have physical dents / bulges on the negative terminals. So I don’t have enough cells for 12s6p + 12s3p for my brother + 12s4p for @RDs . The box I’m using is large enough for a vertically-oriented 12s7p, or for 2 rows of stagger-stacked 12s4p batteries. Now, I have enough good cells for RDs’s 12s4p and for a 12s8p, so I think that’s what I’ll go for.
Question is – do I connect these 2 4P rows as a single 12s8P battery, or as 2x 12s4p batteries with their own BMS? Having 2 smaller batteries sounds nice, because then I could just remove one if I want to decrease weight for jumping 
On the other hand, I’d need to charge them separately, and that could be quite annoying… What do people think?
I had a 4wd board that had two seperate escs powered by two seperate batteries with their own bms but i charged them together through one charge port. It was a Meepo AWD GT.
My knowledge of batteries is poor so not sure if it’s possible but maybe you can have two 12s4p batteries with their own BMS connected in parallel (to enable you to remove one for jumping) that can be charged together if connected to same charge port?? Just a thought? Might be a shit thought haha
Edit: unless you just meant that if they were disconnected you need to charge them separately. In that case, yes a bit annoying and everything i just typed was a waste haha.
That would definitely be a safe option for charging them. But then when connecting I have to make sure all p-groups are fully charged so that they’re at the same voltage level. It’s not a horrible idea tbh.
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I want to mount a shredlight at the front of my board, but because of the angled deck + wide baseplates, I can’t use regular shredlights mounts. Their action mount that uses the go-pro mount would be perfect. Anyone know where I could find a mount like the one xboard sells in Europe?
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Search Amazon on metal or aluminum GoPro mount. There should be something to be found.
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What about 3d-printing a mount? For a light, it should be sturdy enough ^^
It would need to survive me tightening my truck bolts, lol.
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Why you need it to be fixed on the mounting holes? You have a trampa deck, you could basically just use screws and bolt it down where ever you need that light to sit. Definitely easier and cheaper to find a metal mount with different hole pattern than the baseplates have.
Just my thoughts.
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Well, there’s the baseplate on the other side, so I’d need to use flathead bolts I guess to make it work. But it looks like there are lots of generic options, so that’ll probably be what I end up doing. Thanks!
Yeah, probably something like this will work for me.
Offtopic, but wow! This is the thing I use to attach my SL-1000 to my backpack, and it’s awesome. Only 2€ on aliexpress! Highly recommend it
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You’re in your own thread, how can you be off topic 
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I mean screw it in the deck, not bolt it.
That would be already strong enough.
Optional you could just use thread repair helicoils.
They work very well on those decks.
That’s what I mean:
M3/M4/M5/M6/M7/M8/M10/m12/M14 Gewinde Reparatur Bit Kit
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I’m gonna flag it, we can’t have people breaking the rules
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NESE battery testing update
Pinging @Agniusm
I cleaned up all the cells with a dremel. Put them in the new 12s6p modules I had purchased, and built the battery:
The new cells I had replaced last time looked good as new, so I didn’t even touch those. The middle arcing spots I couldn’t remove from some of the cells, but the surface was clean (I used the polishing dremel attachment), so it looked good enough. (Forgot to take pictures, sorry!)
Due to its size I could only put a thin layer of foam underneath the battery, and some foam blocks on one side in the enclosure. This is a vibration survival test after all, so don’t want to baby it too much. The packs are wrapped together with fiberglass tape the best I could.
24h later (to let the blue threadlocker cure) I went out on a test ride. (Note that a lot of the road was very bumpy, my helmet was even shaking! But I turned on video stabilization when editing to make the footage more watchable. Would have recorded on the 360 cam, but unfortunately I broke my selfie stick while doing the april fools antenna joke lol )
and as my luck would have it – at 14:30 one of my Moon gears broke. Great 
Need to get some steel gears asap. I wasn’t even doing anything that extreme, so I’m very disappointed.
Anyway, I got back home, and opened up the first 3 modules to check on the cells. The very first module contains the new cells, so any signs of arcing on those would mean a failure. Aaaaand, look what we have –
Even the new cells now show that middle arcing point pattern:
I will disassemble the battery fully a bit later and take pictures if there are cells in even worse condition. But yeah – I think I’ve lost my faith in NESE… I might still use them, but only with a thick layer of foam around them to protect them against vibrations.
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2 bummers in one ride 
Thank you for digging in deep to this nese issue.
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