My nano has been great, no connection issues or anything. Dropped it a couple of times and no scratches or anything. I would go for a flipsky remote though because is has more features like cruise control, board battery life and remote battery life. But for now my nano remote works great and I wont upgrade till I have too.
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Just noticed the wonky can this morning as I put it on charge for my commute - the mount looks straight, the motor is flush up against the mount, the belt stays aligned when spinning the wheels.
Guess I should have put the supporting bracket on between the motor mounts sooner…?
Looks like the clamp is shifting. Do you have the support bar/brackets?
I don’t annoyingly - I will stick an order in today from you as well as a couple other bits and in the interim I might pop to hardware store and just fit a metal bracket. Are the screw holes M3?
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They are M5.
@torqueboards Took the motors apart and they look fine - might add some epoxy between the magnets. But what I did find was… bent mount!
I’m gonna take it into the workshop at work and see if i can bend it straight, but I reckon I should prob get a new one and keep this one as a spare.
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That’s odd. Let us know and we can send a new one out on your next order or asap if you need it right away. @Swish
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@torqueboards hey amazing service with sending out the new brackets 
I got another question -there seems to be a bit of play with the motor casing where it is secured to the motor shaft - the bolts that go into the shaft recess seem really small compared to the size of the recess, resulting in play and damage to the bolt thread. This has damaged the thread on the casing when winding the bolt back out.
This doesn’t seem right, anyone else has this issue or am I missing anything?
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The deck was slightly damaged from bolting the enclosure and the grip tape was worn through so when I was browsing local second hand shop and saw a 38” drop deck with used AT wheels I decided I would have a swap out!
And just for giggles a friend re-gripped my old pintail so I stuck the TB97’s on it 
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It’s been a couple months since I posted, so I thought I’d update my thread.
The 100mm AT wheels wore pretty quickly and don’t provide that much of a nice ride so I thought I’d support my local Evolve shop and bought the AT kit.
I then found that the AT wheels didn’t fit with my existing TB trucks and mount.
I then bought rear evolve trucks and re-mounted everything to find that the TB6374 motor shaft hits the inner wheel…
Couple hours and a dremel later, everything fits!
I sanded and sprayed the bottom of the Atom deck because it looks pants, and will get some decent looking grip tape.
Just need to replace that enclosure…
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No one is going to comment on the absolutely beautiful floor in @Swish garage? I mean look at that epoxy job! Fantastic!
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77kph!? Thats fuckin fast dude!
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Yeah, and that truckliner coating on the table
There’s nothing quite like dropping a washer, nut or small bolt and trying to look for it on that crazy pattern though…
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Jayzues, is this the fastest anyone has gone on a DKP?
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This killed me 
Question for you sir. I have all the parts for my first build. I am working through understanding how to connect everything to my FOCBOX unity…specifically I have a question about connecting the torque boards 12s4p battery to the FOCBOX unity. I see on your build you have a separate switch for turning the battery on and the (momentary switch I think it’s called) that came with the Unity.
Do you first turn the battery switch on which then is providing power to the unity and then turn on the switch that came with the Unity? that seems to make sense to me but I am of course worried about frying my Unity somehow since i have never done that before.
For reference my the components I’m using for the build are: TB-40 deck & enclosure, 12s4p battery from TB, ownboard Double kingpin trucks, Torque 6" pneumatic tires and belt drive setup with flipsky 6374 - 140KV motors (i live in SF and LOVE bombing UP steep hills on my Lonestar so thought the 140KV would handle the hills better and 25 mph is bout fast as I usually am riding), I have a Hoyt street puck for a remote (also have the TB mini with the trigger but thinking i’m gonna use the puck as a remote)
mainly wondering about having the separate switch for the battery on/off and the switch to turn on the Unity and if there is anything there I should be aware of.
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