Right click copy, Right click paste - Haero Bro

Nothing that hasn’t been done before here although for this build I wanted to push my abilities and see if I can pick up some new skills. For the board I wanted something that sits between an AT and a mountain, I won’t be riding through snow and mud so waterproofing isn’t a priority.

One thing I do want is to make it look a little classier than your regular Toyota Hilux mountain board by focusing effort on custom-built VESC and batter enclosures. I’m going for bling!

Deck - Haero Bro 96

Trucks – MBS Matrix II

Bindings - MBS- Currently out of stock :frowning:

Wheels - MBS Rockstar

Motor Mounts – Radium

Grip – Dope Grip

Wheel Gears – MBS 72t

Tyres – Lacroix 7 Inch Roadies

ESC – Maker X DV6

Telemetry – DAVEGA

Motors – FlipSky 6375 16t BH

Control – Flipsy VX2 – Might swap for a Puck Puck Bruce

Battery – P42A 12S6P – DIY Myself

VESC / Battery Enclosure – DYY Myself


Starting with the VESC, I contacted someone on facebook marketplace and for $30 I shared my design idea and had the enclosure printed. I’ll be making the VESC design files available for everyone once I have them handed to me. Below are the links to the MR60 and the XT connectors.

I’m playing around with various mounting methods at the moment, you cant screw-down 3D printed objects too much.

Raw 3D prints come out ruff as guts and need some heavy lifting to the object to a half-decent state. Here was my process.

80 Grit, 180 Grit, 240 Grit, 400 Grit Wet Dry, 800 Grit Wet Dry, 1200 Wet Dry

Then hit it with Colour Spec Plastic Primer Filler Spray and Blade Putty

Repeat this process 3 times only using wet dry sanding and you will have a smooth as glass finish ready for your choice of colour.


Keen to see what you work out for the enclosure! Sounds like a sweet build :+1:

Edit: you beat me to it :rofl:


Now that the VESC is out the way I want to get started on the battery box. I was working with someone on the design although they’ve seemed to drop off the face of the earth.

All I’m left with are some images that we came up with, I’m reaching out to a new guy though who seems to be more reliable. Due to the size of the battery box I may need to split it in two as I’m finding that most DYI 3D printer beds are commonly 220 X 220.

I’ll continue working on the design and once finished I’ll make it available.

Searching this forum I see there are a bunch of under-mounted 3D design files although none for top mounted battery enclosures for mountain boards…… Would be nice to have options.

This enclosure width is specific for the Haero Bro. I’m in two minds of how I mount it. I’ll be using velcro with some type of strap to add and keep tension. I was thinking of adding D shackles to the sides along with some reinforcements or possibly slipping the strap through the base via a cutout. I think this would be a more elegant solution.


Looking good! May I recommend countersinking the socket bolt heads? Would look a lot more sleek with less buttons popped out. Thanks for sharing the panel mounts and your process for finishing a print so nicely. That looks beautiful.


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@Venom121212 I was one step ahead of you on the countersunk bolt idea. The enclosure lid’s flip side was set up for it although there’s this nasty line that spans the entire lid length that proved difficult to smooth out. This wasn’t the case for the other side though. If I had my time again I would have designed/printed the lids without the countersunk option and do it myself post

All the cool kids are going down the thumbscrew path though so I’m just joining the club :slight_smile:

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Mate, you’ve got the knack of finding all the cool shit. I’ve got two colors coming in, lets see how this can pimp my ride :rofl:

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First draft for the ESC and Battery Box.

I saw a similar one on another build for I took (stole) some of the design elements.

I’ll have the STL and STEP to share with everyone soon.


Update time! The prototype 3D print of my top mount enclosure is back. I’m excited and a little bumbed at the same time.

The enclosure and the lid are rock solid although there was some splitting on one side that happened during the print process. I’ve given the piece a once-over with some sandpaper and added Araldite epoxy in the gaps. I’ll also get longer countersunk screws to make sure it’s rock solid. I think I’m going to be able to make this work.


Hey @Kev

Linking my STL files to my build post for everyone to find and re-use.


Looks awesome man! Nice work!!

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Michael -what % infill density did you use for case and lid printing?
Thanks a lot

Hey Mate, @Skaterboy58

The bloke that printed it for me used 10% gyroid infill. Here are some pictures of it during the print process. Hope this helps.

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DYI top mounted enclosure is coming along.



Michael Thanks for that . I am looking at a 20% infill - so should be nice and strong! Any chance you could upload the case STEP file as well Cheers

Heyyy thanks for the compliment, when i saw it i hoped it came from my idea, im feeling very proud, thanks!

So to make it supportless i gave the crosses a chamfer of the depth cutout, tip for next time :slight_smile:

Hi @Skaterboy58, sorry I dont have any .STEP files created for the case.

I worked with a designer to come up with the existing files as a paid job. If I do reach out for some more work I’ll request it though.


With my enclosure almost done I’m starting to look at different mounting options.

I’m thinking two or three screws from the base of the enclosure into thread insert on the board. I want to know what size I should go for M5 or M6?

Is there a specific thread insert people prefer for this deck? Or should I just strap it down through the base?

Also big thanks to Radium for helping to make this all possible.

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I’d be wary of using normal inserts. 3x M6 is what I’d suggest. Perhaps T nuts from the underside?
I’d worry that the type of insert that winds in would wiggle out of the softer deck.