Jeffwuneo, please do the following:
In the very first post i.e. this Put all the photos that you have, along with the size for different board and the price. You can come back later and edit that price at anytime. For 12S4P is very popular, some people might be interested in 12S5P, depending the sizes available on the board. So if you can post the size that will be helpful.
I make edit as say. Thanks you friend.
A safe average markup from wholesale to retail is 50% (equivalent to 2x cost). Our mate @jeffwuneo is the manufacturer. Not only that. Heās selling retail. Markups that he can reasonably tac on are the markup of materials to manufacture the goods, including the operating costs of his machinery, etc. Heās not selling wholesale, so heās a manufacturer that is able to include the markup from manufacturer to wholesaler, as well as the markup from wholesale to retail. And he charges piss all for shipping worldwide.
Iām not saying that the price is correct or true, but he is a manufacturer selling to individual people in small quantities. Heās not a guy that doesnāt have operating costs. Heās not a guy that is doing this as a hobby. He cannot justify taking a loss, and heās personally ventured into the forums and been exceedingly active these past 24 hours on this post.
Individual order fulfillment isnāt something typically done by manufacturers unless thereās a retail price point with a retail markup.
Iām pretty sure that if you donāt like the price, you donāt have to buy it. Right? Or do we still have to buy it regardless?
You are doomed in obligation of purchase
12S5P or even 12S6P would be amazing, but at a certain point layout is going to become very important.
@jeffwuneo Thank for for taking the time to come in and discuss your products with us. Apologies that some of our members seem to have pretty unreasonable expectations of what a feasible business venture takes to be successful.
If this can be made in 12s6p config for the 55$ price, Iād start to get interested
Why so expensive?
Just kidding donāt beat me. Lol
Markup in my profession is 300% lol
@Kug3lis why you think a pcb would be unreliable? It seems a new thing and untested other than a couple people on the forums who made a long version. I couldnāt tell what evolve were doing. Iām assuming the stresses on the copper on the pcb would be the same as if a foil, except there is compression and tension depending on what side of the board, thinner the board the better, but I think those stresses would eventually eat up the board, being softer, and the foil could detach at worst. the solder mask seems likely a help on that. and the through hole vias. the fear of the copper cracking is more the danger than detaching. theres different finishes they put on the pcb as standard and them being hard could maybe start a crack but can get the pcb without any finish and maybe just varnish after done or tape.
this is a long conversation from past threads coming to a heat because someone is now selling what seemed experimental still. Ive never heard of any experience.
we make layout pcb so current path is best way. I update post today
John this is coming to a heat (whatever that means) because no one liked your version all held together with kapton tape. This guy is trying to get something done here as you should be with your indie and ks campaigns. Concentrate on what you are trying to acheive and leave the rest of them to their own ambitions. Your stuff speaks for itself.
theres more to it than that. im encouraged by his high price. getting it done.
im interested in the design. the slots are great but im confused why he didnāt put a good bare trace to solder to instead of having tiny tabs inserted and there isnāt a good contact between the nickel and a trace. the nickel is soldered at a 90 degree angle it seems. i donāt understand what thatās about especially as, even though its done all over, .3mm x7mm nickel isnāt up to standards set by niobie and matador with their testing. you can get .3mmx12mm or probably bigger but the board will be at risk of snapping. battery snapfo.
gunna trim it. forget the outside slots and just wrap around so have a good contact to solder to, and the sets of slots that will be on the inside have traces to solder to.
this version here has no vias, how is the current passed from one layer to another, or its all going through the tiny hole that also has the 1.6mm soldered tab. thatās how i see it. can be better. mechanical tearing down is fun. im not trying to rip on neoās stuff its awesome. when we see something we like we cant help butā¦ ok iāll leave the thread for real
this way of doing it with the series cells snaking how they do up and back is slick but the cells are in danger of shorting to the stuff beside it. could do a third pcb layer and another trace there so could have the cells not short to the stuff beside. forget that though going with the dangerous simpler cheaper method here. no plastic and screw holes for me. i think will rely on just nickel strip. from what i have here with the tape, and with it velcroed cells down in the enclosure i think good.
My bad John. Just seemed like you were coming across a bit bitter and twisted and thats not like you. Probs just an ambiguous read. Good luck with the campaigns.
i was a bit something and i think its because this is great classic diy building stuff, this pcb designing. it seems new and a great progression towards something that coooould be great. and i think was pissed cause we donāt just get it done as a group and group buy a bunch to test. i donāt know how much testing neo has done but it could be better and its seeable.
we test lot and want make this for friend. say price is not final and want make price better for friend. can test with 60a use 2oz copper.
great. Id love to see a 60 continuous amp test really out of anyones battery. 60 amps continuous till the battery low voltage cut off and you have to hold it to your bare chest the whole time. or simpler just a voltage drop test
but what of the design, it seems the contact between the tab and board is at a 90 degree angle and youre soldering in the hole only it seems. for high amps it surely is the weak point.
Is not angle. Is solder down. Each cell connecting to board and trim. Is 0.2 nickle and pure. Big trace is make good current both side. Test 60a is ok. Can make 3oz or 4oz also.
I edit posting with good price. Hope friend can support me.
can you show a picture of the tab going through the hole and how you solder and trim it please? I think the board is great other than that one thingā¦i donāt see how you have the contact between nickel and trace.
Is photo from before. Solder both side nickle top and bottom pcb.