I’ve been going back and forth between my 2 kits, the tarab (1st kit) and basalt tesseract (2nd kit).
Some things I noticed: The old kit is noticeably louder. Even when free-rolling, the motor goes like uuueeeeeeeeeeeee while the new kit is almost silent.
The remote of the old kit is also a tiny bit brighter and when not doing anything and just letting the wheels spin freely (no contact with the ground) on max speed, the old kit hits a higher topspeed than the new one (according to the remote that is).
Don’t really care about the second point but the difference in motor noise got me a bit wondering. Is it just because the 1st one is a couple months older and got more beat? How loud are the kits from people here?
I got my kit a couple of weeks ago. My kit is practically dead silent when riding, meaning the road noise is just louder that the motors. The only time I hear any motor noise is when braking.
Also, If it is noisy wheels up and wheels down then its another sign you need to lubricate your bearings. It needs to be done frequenlty depending on road dust and encounters with moisture. Also, some of the eariest production runs of the Kit were a bit underlubricated from the factory. I do it at least onece a week.
Another possibility is that I have seen very soft 74A wheels become loose around the kegel adapters. The spoke holes seem to streatch, allowing the adapters to rattle. I have not had this problem but I have seen it on another Revel Kit that belongs to a friend in Ottawa.
Regardless of any play in the spoke holes, you need to keep your bearings lubricated.
FYI, here is a video of a motor that screamed like a soccer whistle at High RPM. Turning by hand, it sounded like a hack saw. It was just dry bearings. A little bit of speedcream and it returned to it’s normal whisper sounds.
But don’t wait for the bearings to sound like this before you lubricate them. These were first production run motors that were essentially unlubricated by the factory. Its one of the bugs that got worked out on later production runs.
I currently ride the 97mm Lazy Rolling wheels. I have put about 1000 kilometers on them, and they are due for a replacement…
Seeing as you have experience with a variety of wheels and seem to recommend CW. How would you say it compares to the LR glow wheels?
I mainly wonder about motor stress, range and grip. The LR wheels were good when new, but now they have lost a lot of grip, and I slide more. In terms of range and stress, I have had no problems with them.
a) you pinched the sensor wires the last time you disassembled/reassembled (if you ever did that)
b) Same as above, sensor harnes disconnected
c) Broken hall sensor – like you said
Thanks for the theories
I will properly troubleshoot it once I have time, it does not affect me much, I always kickstart anyway. It does feel like something sensor related though, has all of the same symptoms as when I broke a LandWheel hall sensor
Good guess! Sounds possible, I think the connector is glued, but European roads and paths are ruthless.
I only opened my kit once out of curiosity to inspect the electronics, that was months ago.
How long are the remote batteries supposed to last? I am barely getting 50 minutes out of mine. I can’t even get through one single extended range battery on the board without the remote dying. This definitely isn’t normal right? From what I’ve read on here before it’s supposed to last 2 extended range batteries? I thought maybe the remote is new and needs adjusting but it keeps happening every ride.
I talked to support and they are sending out a new battery to me. Hopefully that fixes the issue. I made a reddit post as well and one of the responses was that the battery is supposed to last 2 extended range batteries on the board. One other user was having the same issue as me.
There have been some issues along the way with the remote batteries having lower battery life than expected. The team is working on finding a battery to upgrade them with from the factory
@BearBoi
I got mixed feeling about the LR glow wheels, love the way they looked but hated the way they felt.
I love my top speed and don’t care much for acceleration, range only takes a small hit so I’ve always preferred wheels bigger than 105mm for speed and clearance.
I’ve heard lots of people having problems with the Original CW because of supposed cracks in the core, but so far I’m checking them every so often and still going strong with mine.
Compared to the Revels wheels the LR felt like bricks.
That’s just my opinion based on my terrain so all depends on what you need your wheels to accomplish.
@pkasanda
I got a response from revel support and determined that I needed to cut 2 green wires.
I’ll keep everyone updated on how it works out after a few rides.
I agree my feet don’t mind really, I got used to the hardness, but I fear for my poor revel I feel like I will break every component from vibrations with these.
I lived on top of a hill before, but recently moved to a flatter area, so torque, range and acceleration does not bother me anymore.
120mm still feels too aggressive for a 2WD kit. However do I have your divine blessing @SpeedyFrenchy to order the 105mm iWonders? if so I will. And will report back on my opinion.
My videos don’t play again on browser outside of iOS so I had to re-encode them to h264. Can’t edit the original posts so sorry for posting again, I hope it works now
I listened a few times. Honestly the motors sound perfect to me. The only thing unusual perhaps is that the motors stop a little suddenly if you are letting them coast. However if you arepuling the remote back into the brake zone or leting the spring snap the remote back into the brake zone, then I hear nothing unusual. In fact they sound perfect.
If the motors are stopping suddenly without any braking from the remote then I would check to make sure the axle nuts are not too tight. You want to gently tightn the axle nut to a soft stop and then reverse the nut about a half turn. I incrementally back off the nut and spin the wheel to see how long it spins. I stop backing off the nut at the point that I get a big increase in the duration of the spin. Then I tighten a tiny bit to see if I lose the extra spin time. I go back and forth in that zone until I get the maximum spin wiht the least amount of free play. A little bit of free play is fine in my books. By Free play, I mean you can wiggle the wheel side to side and the wheel and bearings move slightly on the axle.