Don’t be concerned about that post. The only way that happens is overtightened bearings. Any wheel core that is not made out of metal would melt down after a short period of running on overtightened bearings. I was concerned when I first saw it which is why I posted it here. However a bit more consideration and it was clear what had actually happened. User error. No fault of the product.
1 Like
Thanks for the reassurance! I will make sure to never over tighten bearings.
1 Like
Been riding the Discovery 120 at 260 pounds (save me, WeightWatchers) for a good bit and so far, so good.
2 Likes
These look dope! Thanks for that
People can disagree with me all they want but I ain’t believing this shit for one second. A wheel doesn’t just shear in half like that, there has to be something else going on here… Especially considering the account deletion
@SpeedyFrenchy m8 I gotta give it to you that’s the most miles I’ve seen heard anyone say they’ve put on a kit. That’s impressive.
I may have missed it but how old is your kit? Some of the older ones had temperature wire issues from time to time like Paul was mentioning.
Hey @ShutterShock :
Its not clear which of my posts you are replying to so its not clear if you are calling BS on the Reddit post of the melted wheels
Or if you are calling BS on me for saying its a user error, not a product defect.
I think you are calling BS on the redit post.
I think you know that improperly installed wheels can result in melted wheel cores even for the best quality wheel cores.
This picture shows a wheel core melted due to missing spacer. Overtightened bearings can do the same thing. I suppose missing spacer is another type of user error that might have happened with the melted cloud wheel cores.
1 Like
Oh yeah my bad I wasn’t clear.
BS on the reddit user that it wasn’t user error. I’ve seen wheels demolished like this by bad bearings or improper installment without a spacer.
I want cloudwheels to succeed, they are awesome to ride on
1 Like
Quit being a jerk. 37-day virtual ban.
2 Likes
I cAn’t believe yOu’ve done this
1 Like
Interesting
1 Like
So I wanted to get some bushings for my new build and instead of going with orangatang purple nipples I went with riptide. Did my fair share of research and got 87a pink barrells. Also some 85a blue ones for playing around.
Dumb me first time buying bushings from riptide didn’t think that the bushings are for each side individually (not a 4 pack like orangatang). My brain went like “of course it’s 2 bushings, one for front and one for back”. So yeah, now I got only half of the bushings I wanted.
Before re-ordering again and wasting shipping cost, what do you guys think about 87a and 85a combined? Which hardness should be boardside and which should be roadside?
68kg rider, wanted a bit more stability for this build with the tesseract, hence the 87a barrel bushings.
Lmao ya you gotta be careful XD
I think that hardness would be alright for your weight, generally you want the softer ones roadside and harder boardside.
The stock hardware that comes with the Revel Kit seems a little short for me to mount shredlights on my back truck with the Earthwing Muirderer deck (7-ply). What length of hardware should I get as replacements? Also if I were to replace the Kingpin bolt with the one from MuirSkate what length should I get?
I’m actually in California 2 hours south of SF
My roads are a mix between fresh pavement and Swiss cheese roads so I love my clearance, anything under 100mm is just not enough
I’d love to wire the 2 batteries together but I don’t know how, also I use my 2 extra batteries very often when on longer rides.
Shuttershock
I’m sorry I’m new to this forum I’m not sure how to link another username
I’ve had my kit since January and I’ve been using it 5 days a week for my 16 mile commute there and back, so my mileage is an estimate.
I know for sure I have the second batch since my direct drive have the grooves on them and I’ve Also got the little shield on the center of the truck.
1 Like
So what I do is to order stainless steel hardware from my local fastener store. In my case it is Fastenal.
I’ve always ordered from the store but they do have a web site.
Stainless Steel is almost as hard as Grade 8.
I prefer Stainless Steel because it never rusts.
For the deck hardware if you want slightly longer screws of two inches,
you would want S/S FPH MS 10-32
That means Stainless Steel Flat Philips Head Machine Screw
10 designates a diameter of 3/16
32 refers to fine threads which may be 32 threads per inch.
I recently purchased a bag of 50 for $11.25 CDN.
Thats enough screws for a lifetime of skateboard building. I also purchased the matching Nylock Stainless Steel Nuts for $3.75 CDN.
Now the problem is that I get that price because I buy alot of hardware and I’ve set myself up with a great discount at the local store. Without that discount, the walk-in price at these hardware stores can be crazy expensive. There is a competing store in town where I don’t have an account and they would charge me about $50 for the same bag of screws.
I’ve never purchased screws on line before, but the price before shipping seems pretty reasonable:
$12.11 for a bag of 50 and it looks like you would be allowed to purchase smaller quantities.
So it looks like you could get what you want on-line for a reasonable price.
These are the stainless Steel Nuts:
The Package of 50 cost is $7.80 https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/1170858
The single quantity price is $0.48 (outrageous!!!) https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/77858
So to finish off your question concerning the Deck hardware, you should be able to measure the length that you need depending on the thickness of your deck and the number of risers. Its probably close to 2 inches. In the past I’ve ordered 3 inch screws and cut them to length but Stainless Steel is hard to cut except by dremel and one cutting disk usually only makes it through two screws.
On to your question about the kingpin bolts.
These too can be purchased either from your local retail outlet or the online store. It might be good to bring the on-line price with you to get yourself on to a decent price schedule. Once again I recommend stainless Steel as its almost as hard as grade 8 and will neve rust.
I had to order these in to the store in order to get the fine thread.
The Stock bolts on the Revel Kit are 1 5/8 inches.
That’s an odd size so I just ordered 2 inches. If I recall correctly its a 3/8 inch diameter bolt. You should double check that as I’m going from memory. You want partial threads which means the threads don’t run the full length of the bolt.
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/70146
Looks like the price for each is $1.79. You would want two of them.
You would also need the matching Nuts.
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0171004
Those are just under 10 cents a piece.
Then there is shipping which you would have to calculate based on your zip code and all the items in your shopping cart.
The nice thing about going to the local retail store is that you pay nothing for shipping. If they don’t have the items in stock they will bring it in for you at no cost as long as the items are at their regional warehouse. Most items are there so its only the very obscure hardware that incurs a shipping charge.
You can find your local Fastenal here: https://www.fastenal.com/locations
Fastenal also sells Grade 8 hardware. The price is usually about equal to the cost of stainless steel.
Excluding Shiping Cost, two Stainless Steel Kingpins and nuts would cost you about a Dollar Less than the Grade 8 bolts from this on-line skateboard accessory retailer.
https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/products/71135/muirskate-beasto-grade-8-kingpin-w-lock-nut
3 Likes
type @Sh
then pick from the list.
1 Like
@pkasanda Thank you so much! I really appreciate the time you took to explain everything and link them. I found the local store and I will go there tomorrow to get the stuff!
1 Like
Could this be a faulty hall sensor, or am I wrong? I have not done any troubleshooting. I know how to troubleshoot a hall sensor, just don’t have time for it at the moment.
Hi people. I have been thinking of changing kingpin bolts on the back truck of revel kit. How can i disessemble this to change it without damaging the kit? Everytime i change a back bushing, im worried i will pull on motor cords too hard
The motor wires are pretty tough. there is actually alot of slack to work with after removing the wire guard. There is more slack when you push the kingpin down into the base plate. So swapping bushings should never be difficult if you do it right. If you try to remove the trucks without pushing the kingpin down into the base plate then thats’ when you run out of slack wire.
Removing the King pin actually gives you even more slack because you have to remove the baseplate from the drive. There are inches of slack wire down underneath. The main precaution you want to take is to make sure your trucks are not going to fall off your work table and yank on the wires. SO work in the middle of the table, not at the edge.
These are the steps to swap the kingpin.
- Remove the wire guard
- Peel back the rubber mat at the neck of the drive
- Remove the screws that are hidden under the mat (Cradle the trucks so they don’t fall and yank)
- Remove the pivot nut and push the kingpin deep into and out of the base plate with a screwdriver, punch or scribe. You may need to hammer a bit if the hex head is pinched into the groove.
- Replace the Kingpin and Assemble in reverse order.
When Re-assembling, I like to insert a small home made rubber washer between the lower washer and the baseplate. I make these wiht a pair of scissors and a broken bicycle inner tube. This little gasket does alot to prevent a metalic rattle between the washer and the baseplate.
The next time I have the trucks disassembled, I will try to make a second rubber gasket to sit between the hex head of the kingpin and the underside of the base plate. I’ve never done this befor but I see it as another metal to metal rattle point. I might also try a bit of electrical tape just below the hex head to see if I cna buffer the kingpin and the hole that it slides through.
1 Like