Revel at the "brand" new competitor in the direct drive Esk8 race!

I’ll have to check later, on work pc rn

That sounds like a DJ scratching. Like the wheels I got those the Senior Pepe.

@BillGordon Can you upgrade everyone in this thread to Edit/Delete privilages including @angrypage

Angrypage needs to at least make it to member to have edit privileges, I am pretty sure the edit removal was reversed sometime ago.

He is only basic, we have the system for a reason, and while it may be annoying for him to have to post multiple times, it is also pretty easy to achieve the member rank

That’s reassuring to hear! I thought so too, just that my new kit is much more silent made it stand out to me. Probably just overthinking on my end

I wouldn’t say that my blessing is divine :sweat_smile:, but yes definitely.
There not the most grippy wheels, but definitely will give you confidence going fast.
Yeah on 2wd I wouldn’t go more than 105mm, I’m on 4wd so it’s another ball game😬.
I would highly recommend the Momentum hollow 105mm wheels if you want added grip on the road,
I’ve been eyeing them since they were a prototype.

@pkasanda
I’ve done a few speed run and no issues so far !
Also added some much needed LED’s connected to the USB port.
image|375x500

@SpeedyFrenchy

Super cool looking ride.!!!
I’d love to know more about the honeycomb Grip surface. Neoprene? Where did you get it?
Nice big kicktail. Is it enough to lift the front end?
I’m trying to figure out what the two posts are? Foot hooks?
I’m trying to picture how you get your rear foot over the hook and on to the kick. Must be tricky.
I do it all the time on the Tarib but there is no foot hook in the way.
Wheels? those are 120’s?
But you also have 105 discoveries. Do you notice much difference in ride comfort?

It’s Dope griptape from a company in Europe, but can easily be done DIY with 1/8inch neoprene.

Yes big enough to tic tac around and yes it’s a toe stop, it’s not that tricky to put my rear foot on the tail and back and forth.
They’ve help immensely with staying stable at high speed, avoiding wobbles and jumping over gaps

I only got the old 120’s I don’t have any of the new discoveries. I had 105’s from boundmotor though.

They look cool, but they are pre-order only at the moment, I would wait until more reviews come. Looks like a cool wheel though.

I will take any excuse I can get to justify purchasing new wheels, so I’ll take it :slight_smile:

1 Like

May the lords of esk8 bless your purchase with holy speedcream !

Link to product?

Hey guys,

I’ve been enjoying my new kits, but have found one of my motors to be making a grinding noise and vibration.

What do you think? Bearings? It continues to get worse, the more I ride.

Yes. Definitely bearing noise.

Thanks Paul. I just took off the wheel to check the adapter screws…all tight. However, the cogs are loose when inserted into the wheel. That is definitely contributing to the grinding/clicking noise. I’l lubricate the bearings for good measure. I swapped wheels from side to side and determined that the adapter is not molded to spec (the cogs are not large enough and are creating slack). So, I wonder if Revel would send me a new adapter?

Hey guys should you use the speed cream and lubricate the motors and wheels right out of the box?

Its not the adapters. The wheels eventually streatch, especialy the soft 74-A compound wheels.

You can verify this by swapping in the front wheels that have never been driven by adapters. I think you will find that the loose fit goes away.

This situation happened to a friend of mine in Ottawa. He has 4WD so swapping front to back does not help. His only option is to buy new wheels.

He tried a few things including electrical tape on the spokes. There are probably more potential solutions that could be tried.

I don’t have the loose spoke issue myself so its hard for me to experiment.

I’m also not convinced that loose adapters are an actual source of ratteling noise. I’m skeptical that a plastic adapter inside a soft urethane wheel has the accoustic properties needed to product a hard ratteling noise.

So there are other places that I would look first to trouble shoot a rattle.

Your bearing noise video absoloutley showed dry bearing noise and had nothing to do with the adapters.

After lubricating , if you still hear a rattle, this is where I would start your trouble shooting:

  1. The loudest source of noise tends to be the drive slapping against the deck. Depending on the shape of the deck and how flexible it is it can be the entire surface slapping or just the edge jackhammering against the deck. I’ve posted about this before so skim my earlier posts or search this thread for “anti-vibration”.

  2. The metal to metal surface between the lower washer and the base plate is a place that can create a clanking sound. As noted in previous posts, I like to make a rubber washer to sit between those two surfaces. It makes a noticable difference.

  3. The hex head head of the kingpin also has the potential to strike against the inside of the base plate. I have not had the time to experiment with a rubber washer in that area yet but I suspect it will give me a quieter ride on rough roads.

It can’t hurt. Very early production runs had under lubricated bearings. The motors and possibly the motor manufacturer has changed since then so there is no specific reason to worry about dry bearings from the factory. But it can’t hurt.

The important thing is to do the maintenance frequently, expecialy if you encounter grit and moisture.

Sounds good. @pkasanda I noticed you are from Ottawa which is a couple hours away from me. I have lots of family there and visit often. Are there ever any group rides organized?

Ottawa has a fairly active electic longboad club. There are group rides most weeks. Let me know when you are coming and I’ll take you on a tour of the paths.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/575796002777577