Revel at the "brand" new competitor in the direct drive Esk8 race!

Anyone has a revel kit extended range for sale? Don’t want to wait 3 weeks + !

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Those look cool!

This must’ve been posted in this huge thread already, but I can’t seem to find it: has anyone ever wrote a how-to on changing the bushings on a Revel Kit?

What part are you curious about? It’s pretty much exactly the same as a normal board except for the plate on the back

Keep in mind the roadside bushing in the back is shorter than normal bushings due to the plate

That’s valuable info, thanks. Haven’t taken it apart yet, planning on doing so later today. Since there’s so much valuable knowledge in this thread, thought it’d be wise to first ask. I’ve got different sets of double barrel bushings in different durometers, Khiro I believe, but they won’t fit in the back then?

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You know, to add to the overall database, ask Brad here to get the best combo possible:

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Crazy good deal

I rode this wheels on my revel and they’re absolutely fantastic !

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Step by Step instructions here

You, good sir, deserve a medal. And also, a salary. From Revel Boards, for instance. Thank you so much.

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It’s not 3 weeks, mine took almost 3 months to reach me

Recently a connection broke inside my extended range battery, since Revel wasn’t answering emails or phone calls i broke it apart and soldered everything back together. Seems like it would be a common issue based on how it was built. Do you all want photos and a guide on how i did it?

Everything seems to be working fine for the last few rides i took it on.

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Always, good sir. Keep building the database.

So i was cruising through the park when the board died, no big bumps hit or anything. Couldn’t get to to start even with re-seating the battery multiple times. Straight dead. Walked it home.

Symptoms and Troubleshooting
After reaching out to Revel and not receiving a response. I started looking through this thread since it has the more technical information than the subreddit, and found @pkasanda’s posts about the voltage being low after a similar thing and his friend getting it soldered and having it work fine after. It also wasn’t charging on the dock or on the kit. It would just show a green light on the charger. So i got it all apart, tried to take it to a battery shop to have them solder it together. No dice. Apparently they have an aversion to lithium batteries which is understandable. (btw there’s 2 deep screws and 4 for the metal clip retaining plate, besides all the normal perimeter screws.)
I forgot to take during and after photos, so you’ll have to put up with my MS Paint quality illustrations.


The Problem
Area highlighted in red
So here’s what happened. At least for the extended range model there’s 2 banks (don’t know the proper term) of batteries and either end is connected to the circuit boards inside the pack. BUT between the 2 banks, they just used an extra metal tab that usually links battery to battery via spot weld to make the connection between the banks. This caused a sort of structural load to be placed on this metal tab because there wasn’t sufficient reinforcement between the banks and allowed movement to stress this metal tab until it broke and sheared completely.


The Fix
Replacement wire in blue
First i had to peel off the black fiber tape and then clear off some of the yellow adhesive they used to reinforce the soldering joints and keep wires in place against vibrations in order to see what had actually gone wrong. After i saw that the metal tab had sheared, i used a dremel to clear the rest of the adhesive off the metal and rough up the surface for the solder. If you’re going to do this don’t just solder the two pieces of metal back together. You will just end up with the same problem. I used a similar gauge wire to connect the two points back together, i soldered it back together being careful not to have too much heat next to the cells. Once the solder connections were solid, i filed down the solder below the top black plastic frame holding the cells in place. (because the fit inside the pack is tight.)


Testing and Sealing
Silicone reinforcement in pink
After i tested the battery pack in the charger to make sure it was taking a charge, and it lit up red! Which was awesome. Next i slid it into the kit and it fired up great, on speed 4 no smoke or sparks so i called it good. If you’re going to do this. Don’t be dumb like me during testing and remember to affix the metal plate for the clip before sliding it in. Or else it’s a pain to get out and you’ll need to sort of slide the plate back into the kit while the battery is still in anyways to actually get it out. I then squeezed silicone over the solder joints to help stop corrosion and including a big gob (in pink) to act as a buffer between the two banks so the solder points won’t touch and further dampen the vibrations. I will also re-open the pack and put slightly more silicone around the edge to help seal it against moisture better since i saw some dust inside the pack.

Overall, it really could have been much worse in how it broke. I see why they connected it the way they did, but they also could have done one more step in the soldering process to prevent this. Getting a kit like this i was already expecting some DiY and most companies besides boosted and maybe evolve don’t have good support from what i hear. If you have any questions, i am new to this forum so if you can’t reach me here you can usually always reach me on Reddit under /u/MilitaryThyme

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Thank you for sharing this!

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So, a little while ago I got my hands on a Revel Kit, secondhand but pretty much new. Had an idea of how I wanted my setup to look. So finally got my Olson & Hekmati FD100 deck in. Wanted to go for a clean and understated look, and I’m very happy with how it turned out. Damn rain preventing me from riding yet, but I’m off for a week so should get lucky with a break of the rain at some point. What do you guys think?

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Looks great. Depending on your road quality, you might want to add some additional Vibration isolation. If you pavement quality is good, you don’t need it. Next upgrades to consider are pivot bushings to match your weight. The next upgrade to think about (IMO) would be TB 90 74A Wheels.

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Great post!!!

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Thanks! Really tried to cover everything i did. Seems to be holding up pretty well :slight_smile: Appreciate all your hard work in this thread, couldn’t have done it without reading over the knowledge base here.

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Thanks for providing feedback and showing your process. Obviously in circumstances like this the best route is to take customer service to keep your warranty, but good job in fixing it yourself, hopefully it holds up well for you.

Revel has been extremely busy managing outgoing orders recently and is doing the best they can to keep up. Sorry to hear about the delay in the customer service!

Without revealing a lot of internal data, one of the things in progress at Revel is improving battery designs and reliability as a whole (as companies should be), I’m working with them to improve the next battery internal design so any user data that’s available is great to have.

In other news,

I guess when I was installing my new bushings I suppose I must have had the kingpin pushed incorrectly or something. Not sure what happened but I guess I saw it wrong lol - the roadside and boardside are exactly the same

I think the roadside bushing that I was trying to install was taller than normal? Who knows, my current setup works great

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