Reply to "Pictures and nothing else" thread

Media
#8506

Got a mig for that :+1:

1 Like
#8507

You have a spool gun?

2 Likes
#8508

Can anyone in the states do welding? Looking to weld trucks and mounts

2 Likes
#8509

Yep all auto.

1 Like
#8510

Nice. I jave never welded aluminum with mig but have always wanted to try. Welding aluminum with tig just looks so damn good.

3 Likes
#8511

Ok so I was told to try epoxy to hold the can to the stator. I used loctite 680 :man_shrugging:. That can shouldnā€™t unscrew ever again once it cures for 24 hours. Iā€™m never getting it off again as Iā€™d need to blow torch the motor to remove it soā€¦

I use it to hold my motor pulleys on with no set screw only a key. I figured fuck it, same shit and it actually works. Now I donā€™t like the idea of only relying on the loctite to prevent the can unscrewing and locking like it did yesterday but we shall see.

Now a question, I found it a little odd that all of the magnets were fine but one has a nifty gap unlike the others. Also when the can unscrewed itself it ended up causing the stator to hit the can causing those scratches. Nothing seems broken soā€¦ should I be Gucci or nah? Havenā€™t turned the board on since that happened yesterday.

IMG_20200120_183021
IMG_20200120_1830213024Ɨ4032 4.12 MB

IMG_20200120_185251
IMG_20200120_1852514032Ɨ3024 3.79 MB

2 Likes
#8512

Yeah iā€™ve only done steel with the mig. Its a gas/gasless one tho and I think I need to run it with gas for aluminiumā€¦ maybe one day.

1 Like
#8513

The scratches are fine, the gap is fine too. A lot of full magnet cans have a tiny gap from tolerances. Almost impossible to make it juuust perfect and have it all fit.

5 Likes
#8514

Ok cool. I figured theyā€™d be fine but just wanted to check. Gonna wait for the loctite to cure and try them again tomorrow.

1 Like
#8515

If you want it to last wait at least 48h. Else you will get micro fissures and compromise strength and longevity.

2 Likes
#8516

Yeah I know the spec sheet of loctite 680 has it at about 80-90% full strength on steel in 24 hours. I mean thatā€™s still pretty good though considering you cant even budge it after 10 minutes.

1 Like
#8517

It may be fine, but if you put force on it before it reaches 100% it wonā€™t ever reach 100% anymore :grin: so it may break prematurely

4 Likes
#8518

I donā€™t have a BOM but i did make a thread on how i made it. Take a look

2 Likes
#8519

Keep an eye on motor temps. If they get high enough it could loosen. Prolly be fine

1 Like
#8520

@PrivacyDoctor if the threads are in you can just use it as is. File down the exposed sharp edges. If you want to remove the insert and try again, red loctite a bolt into it, let it fully cure and you should be able to unscrew the insert out with the bolt.

2 Likes
#8521

@Trampa Frank, could you please enlighten me on this one Noob question thread! šŸ˜€ ask your questions here! ?

1 Like
#8522

Thank you! This was messy, but I learned a lot about these in the process. :slight_smile:

1 Like
#8523
2 Likes
#8524

Thanks a lot! However, I still donā€™t get it. Could you please tell me the connection from the ā€œpower switchā€ pin is to which other pin on the VESC#1 (same VESC), or VESC#2, or elsewhere?

2 Likes
#8525

If you use roll to start only: Simply bridge Switch pin to any GND pin (on each VESC).
If you use Power switch: Use a N ormally C losed momentary switch (NC).
On VESC A: Wire Switch Pin and GND to the power switch. The switch bridges GND to the Switch Pin. When you press the button, you brake the connection for a second.
On VESC B: only connect the Switch Pin to the power switch. Do not connect GND!
Both VESCs are hooked up to the same Battery.

1 Like