🖼 Reply to “Pictures and nothing else” thread 2023

yup, rims/tires/pulleys 3d printed :point_down:

it’s just part of the procedure to destroy them in development phase to test durability of the design :nerd_face:

crack, print new ones. crack, print new ones, right? :sweat_smile: lotsa waste HAHA

if printing’em hollow is for saving filament just print’em solid and you’ll save waaay more in the long run :+1: pack the pulley in salt powder and fire up the oven. fused layers increase mechanical strength by 50% :sunglasses: cracking problem solved

tutorial:

in few years when teeth wear out put it in a silicone mold, sprinkle some filament and watch it all melt into a brand new part :sunglasses: filament waste problem solved

tutorial:

Veeery handy for tires after lotsa powerslides/donuts/burnouts :rofl:

a set of printed tires uses 2 spools every 6 months but but remelting them only takes a little to replace what got worn out HAHA

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If you’re using that stuff in a board it better be damn good…oh, wait…

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The thumbs up is really telling of the internal QC

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Do you have a thread about your wheels somewhere? they look really cool. I was always wondering about actual real world long term performance of 3d printed wheels.

It’s mostly out of curiosity. If I print them solid straight away I’ll never know with how few perimeters I can get away with. Also weight saving. The one that cracked was only 5 walls, plus the bottom was way too thin, and it lasted exactly a month.

Oh cool, might try that someday. Does the part shrink a bit? Is it a problem for pulleys, or does the belt still fits just fine after baking?

That sounds really cool, not to mention saving 100s of hours of printing time.

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As long as the axle is in-line with the center bushing/spherical joint, its zero rake.

So looking at this diagram.

image

The black line of the pivot axis is a line defined by the pivot points, which on an RKP is the bushing seat, and the pivot cup.

On a 3 link truck, the main joint is one of the pivot points. And because the axle travels straight through it, the wheels will always be in-line.

You can offset the axle on a 3 link to gain positive/negative rake, but that’s going to involve a standoff, like this.

Here the axle is on the roadside of the pivot axis, which is positive rake.

I’ll do a little spiel on rake too I guess.
So rake is connected with trail, but it is separate.

The easiest way to simplify what rake is doing is to dilute it down to a raising or lowering center of gravity. There’s other attributes, but this one thing covers most of what contributes to the feel and preference of pos/neg rake.

The axle instead of being center, move in a circle around the pivot axis.

Which means as it rotates, the axle is moving up and down slightly, like the hands on a clock as they move around. Noon is higher than 6:00.

Positive rake makes the deck divey. It readily accepts energy to push deeper into turns, but it is stable up top where weight doesn’t have a lot of leverage.

Negative rake is the opposite. It saps energy the deeper into turns you go.

You could also think about it like board height. Just like for the truck there’s a pivot axis, the deck has a roll axis. Its doing similar things between both. With your deck you have topmount leverage if you have tall trucks, and if you do a crazy double drop you can get hammocking.

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yup, it’s not just about the final destination… the trip getting there is half the adventure :rofl: HAHA exploring and learning

:small_orange_diamond:#1 thing affecting strength is line thickness:
a chain is only as strong as weekest link. after the 7 perimeters one finishes printing slap a 1mm nozzle on that baby and crank layer height up to 0.8mm and line width to 1mm :muscle: Huuuge strength difference

:small_orange_diamond:#2 is infill:
you’re going from triangles to honeycomb :+1: good move. try gyroid. disperses shock in all direction, since you mentioned offroading. handy when inevitably hitting stones :sweat_smile:

end of day gotta replace those sliced belts… but hey, at least pulleys survive HAHA

I wish :grin: there’s only a handfull of people 3d printing wheels around here… we’re a rare breed :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: but hey, check :point_right: Max’s thread for ideas.

yeah but tenths of a millimeter difference is acceptable tolerance. besides, motor mounts have adjustments.

:small_orange_diamond:strength-wise:
testing against commercial ones I ripped urethane of “all-terrain” cloudwheels to the core in 2 hours by hitting curbs/walls/potholes/speed bumps/manholes/drainages/stones/etc

same punishment on offroad 3d printed wheels took 5 days to even crack one rim:

went home, increased rim thickness. presto! never cracked again. lesson learned :blush:

:small_orange_diamond: temperature-wise:
3d printed thermoplastic polyurethane/elastometer melts… unlike commercial thermoset urethane, which just burns. so heat dissipation is important. burnouts melt them in 30sec:

XiaoYing_Video_1697208705775

vid is of street wheels but offroad ones are same. remember keep powerslides/burnouts short.

for doing donuts better less than 3 perimeters otherwise heat/centrifuge force starts separating perimeter layers till it reaches the infill.

:point_right: this is 10 perimeters after 2 months of donuts:

:small_orange_diamond:range-wise:
forget it :disappointed_relieved: deep groove offroad treaded tires eat the range by half compared to street wheels… nuff said

:small_orange_diamond:speed-wise:
know how iwonder slaps inside the box in big letters: “do not exceed 40km/h” (25mph)?

For high speed better street wheels. that said, 20min ago just did over 50km/h (31mph) down the highway on printed offroads just fine :sunglasses: and been doing it daily for months now.

Lemme finish designing/testing some street wheels better suited for 60-70km/h (37-44mph)

next month can start contributing my 2 cents on the subject :grin:

keep us updated on yours :+1:

cheers :beer:

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Absolutely killer shade of orange!

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Bless up with the link to those lights :pray:

love the graphics btw

Thanks! They are about 2k lumen. I epoxied the rear one in red to make a matching rear light.



Here is a link for ya.

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Why would they have ads for Electrify Expo on the page that sells dino juice boards? Do they not understand what this is all about?

Apparently they missed the E in Esk8con as well.

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Let’s give them the benefit of the doubt and assume they want to show off their ignition coil and distributor. It’s probably bleeding-edge tech they have there.

I’ve never seen the gas one in person but the electric ones rip, someone in my group has one and it’s really janky looking and definitely doesn’t look like a product but it’s pretty cool

Yes, I visited the page.

You design your own mounting system like a GoPro mount?

Need to use Gyroid infill at 50% or so and 5 to 7 walls. Works well even with PLA+

@Venom121212 funny you should post this. I was just thinking about something like this after my ride yesterday. wheels dug in on a sandy berm and I feel / went hopping off with one foot still stuck in the board. Decided to rip the rest of the ride with bindings off.

I found that I really liked the feeling of pressing my feet up against the binding strap points - using them as footstops.

I think a more tall and aggressive foot stop, but not so much hook shaped, would be a great alternative to bindings.

Hmm, gotta try that.

Makes sense, I thought about it being more squishy. I mostly just like using honeycomb on clear filaments, cause it looks cool.

The more I hear about cloudwheels, the more I feel like it’s a really bad design. Madwheel105-style seem like a way better alternative.

Whoa, I remember seeing the prototype pictures few years ago. After seeing the videos of this thing in action, it actually makes a lot of sense.
It’s like a mountainboard but with a kicktail, big drive wheel and a full suspension. Like a onewheel that cannot nosedive and can be outfitted with a proper motor.

Very interesting design, a lot of potential. I’d want to get just the frame of this thing at some point. Like add lighter wheels, concave footpads, some massive outrunner with a chaindrive.

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So the drive wheel is on a swingarm, the motor is mounted to the arm to the front of the pivot, there’s a coil of bungie cord beyond the wheel axle that works as a shock.
I’m trying to figure out how the front suspension works, seems like the front footpad is on an axle too.