šŸ–¼ Reply to ā€œPictures and nothing elseā€ thread_2020_summer

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I think itā€™s a great idea

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I think itā€™s a terrible idea because you can fry your vesc if youā€™re braking when the fuses blow.

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Thatā€™s very unlikely to happen since braking currents are much lower than discharge currents. If the fuse blows, it will probably be while accelerating and not while braking.

I would still rather fry my vescs than burn down my board (again) in case thereā€™s a short.

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So insane, you are always builing different boards, all the way through eskate universe. Most busiest guy ever! Thats awesome,dood!

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Lol my homie is out here preaching off of, what?

10s, some hub motors, and 8 miles of range? Lolol

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He probably got the itch though, short jump from there to DIY once you realize 25 is cruising speed.

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@janpom while adding a 60A fuse here could add a tiny amount of safety risk, adding six 10A fuses in parallel is significantly worse imho.

Be really careful with that, if that was in my home Iā€™d immediately cut it up and discard it as a safety hazard.

Any tiny differences in resistivity could lead to a flow imbalance, and if any one of those six blow, the rest will quickly blow in succession

experiments #forscience are great though; carry on

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Has anyone considered adding a diode to allow regen even after blowing the fuse?

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Yes, I realize that. This actually didnā€™t work out quite as I have imagined. I thought I would be able to keep the loop key way smaller than if using a single automotive fuse. Itā€™s not that small at the end though.

Anyway, I will test it very carefully before deciding whether I want to keep it or not.

One other problem I realized is that the terminals of some fuses are very close to each other and may actually touch and bridge the fused connection. It would have been better to put a heatshrink around each fuse.

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Now I have to go through the trouble putting the 7" hubs back on adjust the motors/belts change info in Metr Pro. ainā€™t nobody got time for this I gotta R.E.D.

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al_yaas

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Its not a Senaā€¦but its pretty damn close :grin:

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The fact that the 2mm hex wrench broke before the bolt stripped-out can attest to the quality here.

Wera Hex Plus for lyfe

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Any other wrench would still be whole ā€“ but instead of buying a new wrench, now you have a stripped-out grubscrew fucking up your skate. So instead of a $5 problem, itā€™d be a $1500 problem :rofl:

@257 Here you go, this listing is actually hard to find

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ASVSMP0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

edit: dang, itā€™s out of stock

Just search for 05022602001

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Lol thatā€™s one way to look at it. It didnā€™t seem like I was cranking on it hard enough to snap like it did but it do :man_shrugging: I suppose I am thankful it didnā€™t strip my motor shaft grub screw beyond removal

Thanks for the link :+1:

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Iā€™ve had the same thing happen with Wera Hex Plus 2mm wrenches and Iā€™ve had overtorque situations with other cheap 2mm hex wrenches

The Wera snapping is by far better

The other ones destroy the bolt AND the wrench simultaneously, then youā€™re super-fucked

Put some penetrating oil on it while a new wrench ships, you will be FIIIIIINE

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Lol, canā€™t beat it for a 50

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@janpom similarly was done in the old forum with just one automotive fuse. Donā€™t remember who did it, but he removed all the plastic parts of the fuse and just used the fuse blade. I think you can get the midi fuse blades just as they are without casing.
If itā€™s still too big you could just print a T shaped cover for the loopkey and hide the fuse inside there.

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This is so sick!

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@rafaelinmissouri
which motors are those old ones? and are you selling them by any chance?

20200618_212126
20200618_2121264032Ɨ3024 2.83 MB

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