Something cheap I found in the local hardware store
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Here is a bunch of updates of the 
board…
The glued bike tires are still on. Now they have seen ~600km. There are zero signs of them ripping off.
They do wear a lot though…since most weight lies on the rear wheels, those worn a lot faster.
I swapped the front wheels with the rear wheels after 400km~to get the soft ride back.
A lot of carving, no hard accelerations.
No pattern left and “cushiness” is gone on both front and rear wheels.
To remember, this tire was worn out already when I took it. I kind of wished that I had used a new tire from the start. Now I just want to see what happens when it is worn down to the thane
. I give it at least 500km more to get there.
Upgrade 1
…So i was belt skipping down the street one day and thought maybe some belt adjustments are needed.
Removed the pulley covers to see that the teeth has seen better days… 
The other side do have some profile left… Not sure why it differs. Belts have been tightened the same. Perhaps some slight wheel wobbling on one side?
Conclusion: Pulleys had ~1000km on them. Will go steel next time.
…O wait a minute. I found a new set of 14T alu pulleys in the drawer. Ready to be slap on 
. Since I never go full speed anyway on this board, going from 15T to 14T wont be noticed when it comes to top speed.
Now with 36/14 ratio (instead of 36/15), esc temp has actually dropped slightly.
Here is a picture from a route I normally take. I usually always hit 70degC when reaching the top of the hill (75degC on a hot day).
Now with the new pulley 67degC is the highest I have seen so far. So maybe ~3 degC cooler with 14T instead of 15T. Cool! 
Upgrade 2
I attached a 3mm alu plate for extra thermal mass.
To be honest I didn’t notice as much of a difference as I had hoped. I was hoping for 5-10min extra ride time before reaching a thermal equilibrium. I think I saw less than 5min 
. At first I thought the plate was not connecting good enough. I ran foc openloop on one esc and could see the other once slowly heating up as well so that proves both esc are thermally connected to the plate. well well… 
Upgrade 3
@xsynatic sent me a 6S bluetooth cell monitor. Free of charge… well so far at least. What a great guy 
Since I run without a BMS, I use this to keep an eye on the cells.
Well that’s about it for now!
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I had completely missed this thread for some reason. So much DIY in such a small package, looks awesome!
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It’ll definitely stay that way 
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I like it a lot. It’s a super fun morning cruiser.
In eriksberg now… heading for ramberget hill climb temperature test 
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Our german friend coming in clutch as allways 
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Exactly which glue or adhesive was used for this?
I think I left some brain cells at the bar last night
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Forgotten update…
After 1400km the rubber had worn down. One side started making a slight flapping noise so I teared if off since the cushiness was gone anyway.
I don’t recommend this to anyone because…
-the short lifespan of the rubber.
-the effort and precision needed to get it right
-it’s quite dumb
So obviously I made a new set yesterday… 
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“After 1400km the rubber had worn down.” - You know this is still more range than most other hipster thanes (i.e Cloudwheels)
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If someone were going to do this anyway, what are the gotchas that you’d recommend they watch out for? The things you’d tell yourself before you started, if you could time travel.
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That’s untrue. Clouds can go thousands of kilometers.
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some can, not most.
@b264
If I could travel back in time I would tell myself this
-Do it for the experiment that it is, not because you think you will invent a new revolutionary eskate wheel.
-range will be 20-30% less
-free rolling will be worse than you think
-it’s a softer ride than you expect.
-Tires on rear wheels will wear out a lot faster than you expect compared to the front wheels
-you think you have cut the pieces in perfect length but they always end up 0,5cm too long when gluing them into place
-If the tire piece is too long, you might get an air bubble somewhere between tire and thane. Rolling on that bubble could force the tire and thane to come apart (I think)
-clean the wheels before glueing.
-avoid overhang since it will interfere with the belt
-those extra 4mm of ground clearance you get from the tires strips will actually help a lot for the belt lifetime if using 83mm wheels.
-easy to rip off I you change your mind
Not sure what to say more. It was a surprisingly somewhat successful experiment. I will see how it works out with the boa100 for my Lamboardhini
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This is super useful. Thank you.
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This is one of my favorite boards on this forum. Such an awesome short board 
What’s the total weight of the board?
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Haha thanks, there is a lot of heart but into it
It weighs 8kg. I wish it was lighter to be honest.
-Skate season is soon coming to an end here for me 
I have been running field weakening for some time now.
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30A field weakening current got me 5km/h higher top speed. So from 38 to 43km/h.
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I mostly never go faster than 35kmh when commuting but it is nice to be able to.
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A bonus using field weakening is that I can have duty cycle current lim start = 100% without getting that sudden drop in torque when reaching top speed. It’s a smooth acceleration all the way now.
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Interested if the math for the circumference of the wheel matched up with the tread length you ended up with.
One other thought is maybe if you sanded the wheels to a very very slight concave you could get better range with a little bit less grip, which I would guess you have plenty of.
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Since the bike tire strip is not flat, I need to stretch it a bit when rolling the wheel onto it. This always put me in a situation where I have 2-3mm of excess material in the end. It’s really difficult to get a perfect sized strip not needed any modification once glued in place.
Interesting thought… now I may have to try that 
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