I wanted a powerful lowrider and to have zero range anxiety and here is the birth log of Lamboardhini.
It’s a lot of DIY… just the way I like it
These are the parts I had to work/rework with.
Trucks: Boardnamics 220
Motor mounts: Dickyho long mounts
Wheels: Boa 100mm
Battery: 10S1P 25Ah NMC pouch
Motors: SK3 6374 149kv
Bluetooth: Metr Pro
Enclosure: Yes… raw without paint
Ok let’s go…
Hummi deck arrives, unfortunately with some nasty manufacturing defects.
In fact I could run a 1,5cm knife blade along the side .
I filled up the cracks with epoxi and had it pressed over night.
To fit the battery I had to widen the pre-routed hole with 0,5cm on each side. I used a wooden stick as a guide for my hand router.
I only routed the part necessary for the battery to keep the deck integrity as much as possible. A shout out to @Pedrodemio whos build thread at builders was very inspiring (actually he told me not to go on with this ). How is your deck holding up btw?
After routing… cells fit… che bello!
After a simple test fit of the motors and mounts with the trucks drop through, I realized the motors were sitting too close to the ground for my comfort. I think it was barely 2cm clearance.
I had a 3D model of the build and played around bit and decided to route a hole for the baseplates to gain at least 0,5cm extra clearance.
Masked out where to cut
No turning back after this
I didn’t want to accidentally cut too much with the router so in the end I used a dremel to get the corners right. It took some time but it was very satisfying to see the end result.
Now I’m at amazing 2,5cm clearance. How about that… well still not enough for me because I care for my motors
I reshaped that hummie ass to allow raising the mounts even more and also to avoid the having the motors touch the deck when turning hard
4cm motor clearance now
As probably everyone knows by now, these mounts are notorious for not staying in place (at least the long mounts with a heavy motor). Or maybe the ring adapters I got is made of a 50/50 butter/aluminium mix. That set screw is just cutting its way and the motor mounts drop for each crack in the ground I pass.
To prevent this, I measured twice what angle I wanted the mounts to be in and drilled a hole for the set screw.
… I should have measured three times instead of two. Well at least the motors are are not going anywhere now.
The cross bars/ torque bars are M3 rods with some nuts and washers. Works great I believe. Very cheap.
The dickyho press fit pulleys were super loose in the boa wheels. I put some shrink tube on them to make them stay in place.
They came with these white plastic thingies. They could not fit the holes in the boa wheels.
I made my own out of cable insulation. This is very Macgyver but at least the pulleys are now centered and zero wobbling exists.
The motors are SK3 with open CAN, which means the will get all kinds of crap on the windings and eventually break them. Therefore they need some protection
They also got all bearings replaced.
…and some cable sleeves… and MT30 connectors
I bought a broken used Unity where I bypassed the antispark circuitry to get it running.
…added heat plate to the unity to give it some extra thermal mass
I wanted to build some drop through plates protecting the board so I sketch the outlines on a papper
…then drilled holes in to the plate and lining up my drawing
…I thought the easiest way would be to drill out the gap instead of using a saw.
…oh sweet lord
…but they came out pretty nice in the end
The battery is made of 10 pouch cells in series. Two stacks of 5 with a thin foam in between each cell.
… cell tabs screwed together using a bent metal band.
I modelled a piece to hold the tabs in and battery in place… well mostly because I got a 3D printer and I wanted to used it
I had my first prints being all spaghetti before I got the hang of it.
On the bottom side there is a 1mm foam layer and a 1mm aluminum shield for extra protection.
Routing the wires for everything was a nightmare. It took forever until I could make any progress from this state.
Finally the layout started to become clear
Wires for charging was tested at charging current to see how warm they got. They became about body temperature after a couple of minutes which is a pass in my book
3D printed a xt30 charge port holder which also holds the XT90 connector for the loopkey
For the enclosure mold I took a piece of wood and two smaller pieces to get the correct height I needed
…cut into segments to get the correct shape
…sanded down and added a thingy where the wires will come out
…used tape to get rid of sharp edges.
…two layers of fibreglass cloth
The shape was perfect but it felt a bit flimsy. Should have done 3 layers. After some sanding of the lip it was only 1mm thick
I reinforced the edges to get it more rigid.
smoothed the surface a bit
Adding inserts… always a horrifying experience
Adding a thin foam gasket (keeps dust out… and lets water in )
Cutting some washers out of rubber to protect the enclosure.
…(before deck was routed out for the baseplates. Should be 0,5cm more clearance than this)
For grip I bought a role of anti slip tape… its like 5euro for 5m. Why make it complicated?
…ok lets make it complicated
I 3D printed a rhomb to use as a stencil when cutting out tape pieces
A lot of cutting grip tape. My knife was not happy.
One could get really creative
I was thinking of a space theme… with a rocket and stars…
…but i don’t like rockets so settled on this grip design
So here it is…
I had to add idlers because of belt slip when flooring it.
And then I got hit by a car and the deck cracked…
To be continued…
Deck has been going through some plastic surgery