Actually I’m not tha tmuch concerned about axial forces on the front plate (as I struggle so hard to remove the wheel). The real concern for me is radial centrifuge effect force and torsion due to rotation induced by the 5 screws only if the friction is not high enough between the sleeves and the motors.
If someone have good wheel design that’s the moment! (slick wheels vs some lines in it to get better grip on slippery ground). I’ll add a chamfered edge or a a rounded edge
And actually, you can see it if you download the files but the PU il locked behind the plate (I’ve put “une gorge” (don’t know how to say that in english) )
I admire your determination RobNO. I was just browsing at some threads in the other forum and stumbled on an R2 accident report I hadn’t seen before. The photo made me realise for the first time how delicate outwheels can be, especially on motors that run as hot as these. It almost made me want to give up on my R2 hubs to be honest.
Maybe I’ll add a nylon layer to protect PU from heat but I need to see how I can make that without braking the PU bounds that goes trough the aluminum plate (on my design).
My BMS started smoking. I know I need a 10s 36v 60a but i’m unsure about the right wiring, the regenerative breaking…etc. Anyone care to point out a suitable replacement?
I had the same problem and snatched an “Etray” from the market section here a few days ago.
I think it is a good idea to disconnect the BMS from the battery in the mean time. I don’t know if that’s possible, but I suspect that my faulty BMS was the reason that my battery was discharged from half-full to dangerous levels within a few weeks.
(the initial problem was that my board wouldn’t turn off most of the time, once I moved the button from the BMS to the Focbox Unity and pressed it, the BMS sparked and started smelling -I stupidly reconnected it later on, to test it and left it connected).
I’m from Belgium!
