So is @Chibatterysystems still breathing?
Did you guys steal his kidneys too?
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Guys tomorrow I’ll disassemble an outwheel and make some precise measurements. I’ll make some 3D models with plastic insert and see how I can print that on a Prusa3D dual printer at my school with some PLA and TPU flex or nylon.
Maybe another try with a metal cylinder insert glued inside the TPU.
I’ll keep you update 
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I’m also doing some tests, but with a bucket 
and some bushing balls to keep center.
Let’s get this bitch on a roll
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If youre tying to get a silicone mold out of this: Its not working like that.
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haha this is funny but that’s not my haul.
I’ve got way more than that. I’ve been pretty much just giving shit away.
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I’M ALL OUT OF HUBS, IM SO LOST WITHOUT YOU
It’s some Lord of the Flies shit at this point.
@Kellag was just selling his charity Unity off so I don’t think anyone would judge at this point.
@Chibatterysystems Maybe you should open your own Raptor2 repair center. Get yourself a fancy mall kiosk.
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I’m just getting my feet wet, playing around with leftovers. Thanks for the warmings
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Something tells me it would end badly but might try printing a sleeve out of Ninjaflex around a nylon core/insert.
Psst, it will end badly 
been there, tried that 
casting pu around a nylon core might work, at least for some time, longer as the original sleeve maybe.
You need a better holding mechanism if you want to make it last. Welding squares of metal on top of the metal hull of the hubs to prevent slipping eg.
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Why not?
Well that’s exactly what I’m doing as I said above xD
TPU wears off fast, its nothing in comparison to casted PU.
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Personally I more a fan of machining a new front plate to convert them to direct drive, that honestly seems the easiest route.
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You need a longer axle as well to cope with the forces of the wheel.
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Yeah there’s a number of issues, but I have enough samples to experiment with till I dial it in, really it’s all an effort on futility because these things were all f***d from the get go.
Meeop only charge’s $38+ship for them. Which seems pretty reasonable considering. Add the price of high quality thane to that and you’re at $60-70 a pair. Obviously sliding a bunch on them wouldn’t be the best idea but I think that goes for any hubs.
WIP : 3D print is on it’s way (test model, 20%filling full PLA, just to verify the model. Full impression with dual material and 80% filling would be 24h and 30% material loss just for the head cleaning “tower”.
If model is good, I’ll try to machine the inner part in aluminum. I’ll then 3Dprint a mold in 3 parts and cast a 2 compounds urethane 
Urethane goes through the aluminum insert and make the tightening on the motor. The tightening is adjustable by changing the inner part diameter of the mold.
Just a bit skeptical for the lathe part with a 2.5mm tickness.
@visnu777 what are the best PU for wheel casting?
Wanted to put the files but can’t do that on the forum apparently
EDIT: link to files : https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqPnjK6msoXV4hYW1TKNhXJmbxnn?e=UWB5m5
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This is the best we normal people can do without special tools. The BJB stuff @hummieee used is impossible to get in Europe but theres some thats almost the same and it can be delivered here. (Assuming the NO in you nickname refers to Norway :D)
The wheel looks better than the original but the problem is still similar: All force is applied to the front plate but its more stron since its not made of PU itself. You need to prevent the PU going sideways too, this is what every company that does hubs do with the caps.
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