Well I guess its about time I introduce what I’ve been setting up here in Oz, some of you may know me from the builds I’ve posted here like the Ronin, the Stallion, and the Purple Oni
Quick background:
I picked Raijin because it is the shinto god of lightning and thunder (Japan). I like japanese culture, and especially their vehicles over the years so it all seemed to fit.
I have a particular taste that’s driven by performance, and to me that includes stability, agility and ride feel rather than just paper specs alone. I also take inspiration from the car world with how I like things to look. Lots of things that I wanted out of my boards didn’t really exist, so this is to help make that happen. If not by my design, then by working with the people who can.
Wanted to bring some of this to market and bridge a gap that I find pretty obvious with esk8 tech; upgradeability. I thought it was time to stop treating esk8’s like iPhones and treat them like vehicles. The goal is then to sell racing completes that cater to some different needs in the form of tiers and allow colour customisation, and then offer upgrade packages to higher tiers (by sending the board back for an upgrade). And of course will sell parts to the DIY crowd. The boards are based on downhill skating principles merged with car racing principles for stability, grip, damping, power delivery etc.
I am working with my good friend @Tony_Stark with lots of things in the pipeline, as well as @eLDoska, @Kaydo, @janpom and @Boardnamics through @glyphiks distro.
I have tons of grip designs based around the brand and can do custom work for someone who wants. I chose grip over frit so that it is cheap and replaceable if someone gets tired of the look. I think it looks almost as good but not quite like @Sender. They are all printed by Splattergoat in the USA.
Lastly for now, I am personally working on wheels that have the look I think is desperately needed. I really love Rotiform wheels and they make some of the best wheels in the world, so taking inspiration from their DIA wheel;
How are most current boards not upgradeable right now, and how will you design and create ones that can be? To me it seems like boards today are upgradeable unless you’re speaking on prebuilts and even then people are swapping out motors and wheels and even batteries and escs. Perhaps your boards will make it a little more seamless to throw in different parts and such compared to most boards around right now?
Speaking of pre builts here, you can’t upgrade without really changing the entire board. And when a new one comes out, the old things are obsolete. Of course you can DIY any of them but not everyone can do that and it’s not always pretty
Designing for modularity and essentially using the same base across the lineup, means that you can go from a single stack board all the way to an double stack AWD over time with the same base and most of the same parts. basically how you modify a car piece by piece, or I guess a gaming PC. Also means when something new comes out, you should be able to upgrade parts rather than buying the whole board (cheaper).
First build in the lineup, the Senshi (meaning soldier). Set to do about 60km/h top speed, and 9kw for short spikes. About 10,000 no-load rpm. Split angle 50/44, until boardnamics releases his fixed baseplates that will make the gap larger and even more stable. Using caliber plug bushings from venom which are low rebound as stock, with upgrades to riptides WFB formula for ultimate stability against bump steer and a lot of lean for good cornering. 16s3p 21700, using 16s6a charging so full charge is around 2 hours. More aimed at commuting, with a bit of fun weekend racing/car park sessions. Thank you to @eLDoska for all his help on the decks.
Edit: change that to 9kw motor potential and probably somewhere around 5-6kw realistically. Regardless should still be very powerful for the size and price. thank you @Battery_Mooch
Yeah it is a bit, it’s meant to be single stack but the mould isn’t ready. The enclosure can fit 16s6p, so even though it’s boxy its really functional for the size that it is
moochs testing is continuous though. I haven’t seen much actual data on peak bursts but the manufacturer rated it to 45a so that’s what I’m going with. I have seen close to the expected power in real world riding, but it’s theoretical because of voltage drop. I don’t really know how much the voltage drops instantaneously so I can’t accurately say exactly what the peak output is. Doing my best.
.
