I’m interested to see how people go with 15mm first. The tooth wear on gravel is basically negligible with these so they may perform better than 20mm rubber belts.
Looking forward to peoples feedback after putting some miles on them.
I’m interested to see how people go with 15mm first. The tooth wear on gravel is basically negligible with these so they may perform better than 20mm rubber belts.
Looking forward to peoples feedback after putting some miles on them.
Would these be a good choice for eMTB?
Definitely
Mind putting my order on hold until the wheels are ready too?
You dont happen to be getting chubbys too are you?
Distinct lack of bushings available across retailers here in Aus. they’re all either completely out of the duro’s i want or completely out.
Sure mate no worries.
Already stock a few (tall): Riptide Tall Chubby Bushing for Electric Skateboards Longboards Eskate Esk8 DIY – Radium Performance
Experimenting with softer ones. They would be really nice on a commuter but I haven’t been happy with the liveliness of them after some mods I’ve tried but will keep going.
Spent over an hour testing every combination, every permutation of every known element. (Tried all the APS bushings)
Concluded that for commuting APS would be nice and solid feeling with a good turning circle however I think Krank or a combination of Krank and APS will be the go to get that nice responsive carvey feeling that the prototype board has which is running Krank front and APS rear currently.
The custom pivot tubes also arrived and they fit perfectly! So thats the main potential delay out the way meaning things are looking pretty on schedule
Worn 3D printed TPU pivot tube in the background. Can’t wait to try the R6 trucks with proper thane pivots for the first time! Been running those 3D printed ones from the beginning.
all the bushings
please and thank you
what’s rhe formula/duro?
(i’m assuming they’re from riptide?)
95A high performance thane from a factory in China. We have lots of other complex to mould parts for the mach one so didn’t want to bug Brad with those.
We’ve actually had decent results testing tall barrels made from the same formula but I’d like to support Riptide where possible.
oh ok ok
chillin!
@Tony_Stark off topic sorry (still about trucks though ) , are you producing any more of your bushing adapters for the Matrix 2’s any time soon ?
May have more by December but not likely to before that.
Right , (maybe) in time for next summer then.
Experience a more direct throttle response and more power under load thanks to the reduced friction and higher stiffness that polyurethane provides…
I’m curious to hear about differences in efficiency on these supposedly stiffer PU belts vs traditional rubber belts. A lot of the losses in a belt drive setup are from flexing the belt around the pulleys, so increasing stiffness might make that a lot worse. Anyone buying these willing to do an A/B comparison with logs?
Rubber naturally has low rebound and turns energy to heat as it flexes whereas urethane can return the energy instead of converting to heat.
The first polyurethane belts I tested were Gates Polychain GT carbon which are extremely stiff, yet to my surprise freeroll seemed normal.
On our setups the nylon tooth facing on rubber belts would become fuzzy from abrasion which makes the teeth physically larger and I presume under load the teeth distort and cause excess friction.
With thane belts the teeth have no nylon facing and don’t wear from abrasion. The teeth are also stiffer so hold their shape under load. I figure this leads to more efficient power transfer during high load. But probably less efficient at low load in low wear conditions from what I’ve read.
To compare thane to rubber efficiency with real world tests you’d want to start with an already efficient board with small motors and thane wheels so the belts are a larger percentage of overall loss.
Happy to send a set to anyone willing to do some testing. Whether its range or someone that chews through rubber belts.
someone that chews through rubber belts.
I’ve yet to have a belt last over 200mi on my MTB they’re usually done between 100-170.
Does that count as chewing through them?
(Note that I’m using 445-15 currently, don’t think 435 would fit, and would likely have to switch from a single to a dual idler to run 475s so it may take a little longer and a few more snapped belts to get data points to compare to.)
I’ve yet to have a belt last over 200mi on my MTB they’re usually done between 100-170.
A clear indication you need 20mm wide belts
or gears