Thank you! That honestly makes me feel better about the whole thing.
I’m definitely glad I left room to insulate the interior and add some foam around it for vibrations.
A lot of you guys are way crazier than I am and push everything to the max. 
I think this will turn out just fine. I’m excited — this is the first time I’ve tried anything over 12s.
Is this gonna be 18s?
Yup, this will be 18s. Kind of hard to tell from the angle.
Looks sharp af, saw the updated pic with the flange clean af 
.
This is the point that i like to shrink, i would shrink all the rows of three p groups (after testing voltage to make sure they are oriented correctly… ask me why i check 
). I would suggest making any series connections that would be completely inside of the shrink but i think your plan is to series connect in a big Z,N type so all the series connections would be jumping across the enclosure cells if im on the same track as you. I seal the ends of my shrink with silicone and put a piece of fiber tape over the silicone to keep it from making a mess or looking like a big goober.
(My series connections that are not going from enclosure cell to cell are all hard, low flexibility connections.)
Then i glue them into the enclosure and cut a window into the solder everything up. I like to add a pull tab or ripcord of fiber tape on top of the shrink to move heavy sub groups into and out of the enclosure as im working. Then after series and balance wires are in i seal the windows i cut with big gobs of hot glue
Dude, thank you so much!! I really appreciate the advice and kind words.
I’m planning to go with a Z pattern. As long as I make the series connections long enough so I’ve got plenty of slack, it should work out okay, right? Your cross pattern is awesome, but I’m still a little nervous — sticking with the series connections in line feels more comfortable for me since I’ve done that brick-style build a few times before.
Lots of great experience talking in your advice — I love it. I’ll definitely plan on heat shrinking each group. And your idea to add a pull tab is absolutely genius!
The only reason i try for the non z pattern is it makes fewer openings in the shrink when in the larger cell enclosures. The z pattern is good and should work well when in th ram or older style Lacroix 7 cell enclosures. A matter of taste and not an inferior or superior arrangement imho.
Each enclosure cell boundary will be a point of flex so as long as you make your series and balance wires long enough where they cross it and keep all flex in the wire and none at the solder joint it works well - this is true for any semi flexible battery build.
You got this, the thoughtful effort you’re putting in is obvious. One or two builds and it won’t feel so precarious
I try to avoid that Z pattern to try and keep the main positive and negative wire the same length. There have been several discussions regarding this over the years here and my takeaway is that while it may not be detrimental in real world scenarios (in our use case), it is considered best practice to try and mitigate that difference in length.
+1 for the fibertape loop handles, they’re really handy.
Another option to consider is this layout, which leaves both main wires at the front of the pack, which is a little more convenient to wire up
Having the leads that close together and perfectly equal in length would be awesome, not gonna lie.
I’m definitely tempted to go this route…
Darn it! I wish I would have known about that P-Group wiring before I built the 18S pack for my Lacroix SS. Right now, my positive lead is a long wire that goes to the other end of the pack. Having both leads close together is a brilliant idea. Thanks for sharing!
Right!!! I would never thing of something like that.
@Flyboy Really appreciate the advice on this.
I would love to see some pics of that pack, if you have them!!
Of course! I can’t claim it though, I’ve seen other people on the forum do it before, I just can’t remember where
Radium motors just got in!! Man, these look so nice… Still waiting on a few parts to arrive.
I decided to pick up a set of Newbee 55/11 gear drives. I love the idea of a torque-based build, and I’ve always wanted to try my first set of gears.
Does anyone happen to know if these Radium motors will fit the Newbee drives directly? I’d really like to avoid cutting the motor shafts if possible.
Once the drives and BMS arrive, I should be ready to finishing things.
Mine ended up fitting fine without spacers. But YMMV
If the motor shaft is too long. Newbee also sells spacers or you can 3d print them. Pretty sure @Pecos used the 3d print version before.
Worth noting that mounts actually do a decent amount in terms of heat sinking from the motors, a 3dp spacer rather than an aluminium one would essentially mitigate that benefit
Not sure if you need spacers or not, but if you do need and can’t find them to buy, you can get some ordered from sendcutsend. They can laser cut some from aluminium for pretty cheap. Let me know if you need help with that.
Thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it. Sounds like there’s a decent chance they’ll fit without spacers, but it’s good to know there are options if they don’t.
I hadn’t thought about the heat sinking aspect of the mounts either, so if I do end up needing spacers I’ll probably try to go the aluminum route instead of printing them. SendCutSend is also a great idea if it comes to that.
I really enjoy my Newbee drives.
