Sure, but “buy a big one” is a bit vague in this context. Solid componentry choices and a high cont amp rating would be my preference.
For reliability, I would sooner recommend folks run 10S on a 12S spec ESC than recommend they purchase a Stormcore 100D and run it at 12S.
On my current build, if I had a 60D running at the same voltage/amp settings, it would run a bit cooler than it does on a pair of 100S.
So, imo, the answer here for more reliability would be to go with the lower heat option as transients aren’t a huge factor anymore. Lowering your boards power ceiling is the opposite route most folks are going, and not really an option on bigger boards if you like going up hills.
What do folks think presents a bigger danger to reliability? Transient voltage spikes or heat death?
I think you’re really fixating on this technically correct statement - that they would create less heat - but not using it to draw useful conclusions given the context. There is less heat, but by the nature of running something below its rated currents anyway you’re inherently a good safe margin from the breaking point.
Rather than the marginal increase in heat, the benefits of a stormcore at 12S vs a unity at 12S come in lots of other beefy components well below their max.
I bought a Spintend in the mistaken belief that it would be overkill and thus increase reliability in all areas. Live and learn. Needless to say, it’s temporarily out of my board for other reasons.
We’re talking about two different things at that point.
I’m saying that given my desire to run 85 battery amps per side, going with a 60D would present less heat.
You’re stating another way of lowering heat is by lowering the power ceiling, which is not something I’m willing to do. If I want lower heat at the same settings, I’d need a bigger heatsink and/or mosfets with lower RDSOn.
The only benefit to an HV ESC would be additional protection against transients, and I feel that is a risk that is being overly spotlighted.
Yeah I get the logic here, but to be fair we have been talking to a new builder about buying extra power as a safety margin above where they need, rather than talking to you about restricting your power to below where you need. It sounds like a nitpicky difference in framing but like, it’s important
Obviously lowering power will lower heat. I’m not sure that was ever a question to anyone here, much less a stance being taken. That’s pretty straightforward stuff that I didn’t think needed repeating.
I was challenging the statement you initially made (and have since edited to correct) recommending people run HV ESCs at 12S for more reliability.
My statement on heat differences in my build using the same settings and a 60D vs 100S is valid.
Did a mario kart trip of 40km with a pillow and I can finally push the trigger to 100%(with my ultralight 12s1p build(1 recharge at 20km, we have free bike chargers in some cities) and the acceleration is so nice. It is like a mini go-cart. Video will be uploaded in a few mins.
Well, I suck at riding, recording and talking at once xD
And a banana almost killed me there.
My setup is running a flipsky 6.6 mini(2nd hand)
and it is way overkill for the vesc settings of 15 bat. Amps and 45 mot. Amps on each motor but I also like to leave some room between the maximum I run and the vesc can handle.
The other build has 2 Escape`s which are so rare that my setup with 2x 30 bat. Amps and 80 mot. Amps is not helpful at all.
I know those settings are overkill but I wanted to go v6 after all the blown drvs I have heard of and I run 12s on both. Never had any issues except with the tool/firmware.