Power Traverse - electric snowboard

We have a single motor model. It is waiting for sensors.

We can find a larger single but would need to get creative on the axle.

This approach is to re-use our existing design. With lighter, lower-cost power.

This weight is considerably less than our existing design. ~10lb 5 in copper 5 in lipo

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Have you considered or experimented with chain or belt drive? You could take advantage of a larger gearing ratio and extract far more torque that way.

Need 5065 or 5080 to fit inside.

I would agree with this.
Its not elegant, but you could experiment with ratios using a chain drive to begin with. Sprockets are cheap and easy.

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Part of the design is its simplicity.

As a purist snowboarder. I don’t want anything on my board. No chains, shocks, etc.

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I thought of chain drive as well, but thinking about the interaction I’ve seen here with snow and ice I feel like belts may be superior as the flex would allow for smoother torque translation when going from slippery to grippable surfaces

It’s a lot easier to modify our parts than start from scratch. (These parts use 90% of the same machining steps.)

Anything external can be done internally if we can keep it cool.

We have plenty of extra room now :slight_smile:

Belts would snap within the first 30 seconds

Snow gets between the belt and pulley, stretches, snaps

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From experience, Id say forget going with 50XX motors, they usually have around double the phase resistance compared with 63XX motors of the same length and same Kv, this mean 4 times as much heat for the same torque
If you have airflow and used open motors, it might work, but like that it will be minutes before it thermal throttles, if it even get that far. In a enclosed space with no fresh airflow it only make it worse

If in a board with lower speeds and way lower power I could cook them, you will vaporize them or just have no power due to the thermal rollback

this and the shock load from no grip to grip snapped 5 of my belts, until I learned it and went to ISO 6B chains…a lot louder, but never ever snapped one.

well, but if you experiment with 2 motors (left and right) and also with gearing you can already pick one motor and gear ratio before even start designing.
And after you evaluated the motors and got the perfect ration you can start the adventure of designing and manufacturing a dual hollow gearbox.

Personal opinion: If you don’t have to use gears, don’t do it.
Because:
Look at scooters, EUC, Onewheel even smaller motor bikes: they all use a single hubmotor.
Getting 1 motor + gearing inside a hub is hard, but for 2 it will be even worse.
And did you calculate the weight with or without the ATF, second ESC, double cabling, double connectors etc.

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Scooters don’t operate until 2mph. We need to push 225lb from a dead stop.

We started with the lowest ratio teeth that would fit.

Data looks worth making one. 3D printing fitment now.

About to get the sensors working on the big motors.

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I am not talking about kickscooters, I am talking about 200lb scooters vespa type. They start from dead stops all the time, uphill, at the curb etc. carrying up to 400lb.

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@powertraverse what if you had motors mounted to the torque arms and a chain drive? You could run chains on both sides of an efoil motor

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Those efoil motors are low torque.

We don’t want ice getting in the geartrain. Ice is solid.

Might have found a planetary vendor.

Going to get multiple power options tested.

I assume one system will cost 2x and go twice as fast, but weigh 2x.

The lightest system with 70Nm+ torque is where its at.

If it can get me to the ridge, I can do the rest.

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Low torque but high speed. With the right cog ratio you can translate that into a huge amount of torque.

Math didn’t work out. Less torque and less RPM.

This might work.

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This is so cool I am so hyped for the test vids.

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Well, if you can have gearing, it all comes down to power (Power = torque * RPM)
And for bldc motors power is related to copper weight (if the motor is designed properly). So a small/light motor, no matter inrunner, outrunner, thin, flat, etc. will always have less power than a bigger/heavier one (assuming they both have their correct gearing).

I doubt that this small geared motor with plastic gears can push anywhere close to 5kW; at 97% efficiency of your planetary gears that would be 150W right into plastic…that stuff is melted before you made the first km.

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