I was just thinking that most newer ESCs are going to come with a power button. It would suck if you ever wanted to switch and were forced to either stick with the loop key or plug it and find a new spot for a button.
I would just hate for you to modify the deck, find out it does not work the way you expected, and then wish you had kept the option to use a standard button.
I like the idea of breaking the circuit anyways in case anything goes south. It’s already in the deck now. Just hope I don’t get a rock that hits it and breaks it.
It seems unlikely but that was my thought too. A low profile loopkey would reduce that chance even further. I’m sure i’ve got photos on here somewhere on how i like to make those… will try dig em up
I can’t find my photos but basically i file gaps in the cups and drop a bit of solid copper between the two bullets then solder in. You can make it even smaller than the original height of the bullets if you’re keen enough and file them down.
i got everything wired up but now im to dumb how to figure out vesc tool. nothing is working for my remote but when i run motor detection they spin up perfectly fine. HELP ME
My thoughts after it are alright. I rode about 3 miles perfectly fine, no problems and just enjoying the ride. After those three miles is where the problems started happening. The first one being I was going through an intersection and did a little pull, nothing to much, and my board cut out. I was charged to around 45 percent when I started and I didn’t think I would have crazy voltage sag so I don’t think that was the problem. My other problem was my right motor will not stay tight. I was riding around a corner and hear a clicking noise, checked it out and found the motor was loose. I think I can fix this with more lock tight and better tools for tightening screws down harder. If anyone knows anything about the cutting out issue let please help me.