Inserts are in. The ones for the enclosurefrom @eBoosted/@stratoglide work great. However the ones I bought on Amazon for the trucks are not so great. They have thin wall and a few have snapped open during insertion. They’re in there now and the breaking has actually caused them to wedge themselves in. They are also gorilla glued in. Luckily the threaded part is not damaged just the hex key portion
Clearenced and mounted. Has 7/8" of random risers atm. Will switch to one piece riser. Everything is a relatively tight fit, just as it should be.
Last steps are wiring in the BMS and charge port then it’s test drive time. Might be as early as tonight.
No screw heads to break the nice grip tape surface.
I haven’t seen anybody use Inserts for the truck bolts. seems perfectly sturdy, but I wonder if I’m gonna learn something the hard way. That coupled with the crazy riser setup may cause me to make some changes.
Ive never tried it but it is a little concerning… considering your feet are never gonna be in those spots, i’d just be putting regular hardware through. Maybe get some x-things or moonbeams for a bit of flair
Haha that’s fair, I’m not trying to say anything by it. It isn’t a particularly fast board but I wanted to stick with the falcon. Motif, so that’s what we have.
The decision was mostly cosmetic. If anything feels off after the first few test miles, I’ll go with a regular mount.
Dude nice evo but hell no on inserts for truck mounts. Those decks have zero flex so all the vibration transfers to the trucks. They will give on you especially with all that rise and that could be very dangerous. x thingys look awesome and keep you safe.
Alright so here’s a thing.
My unity powers on despite the antispark bring removed. I hit the push button and it boots. My assumption is that the power is running through the balance leads.
I am aware that I am running a 13s BMS on a 12s, when I started this, the younger more wild me wanted to build a 13s build. It being a dumb BMS it should work at
10s
The issue disappeared when I disconnect the BMS balance wire bunch. Is this a problem? As long as I dont rode without the loopkey it should be fine but what exactly did I do wrong? Or is this normal?
So there’s something wonky with this BMS. If I connect to charge, no current is drawn, yet I do see the battery voltage. Doesn’t really make sense to me at all. Gonna just order 10s BMS. Tune in next weekend for the update.
If that’s a 13s bms and you’re running it bypassed on a 12s battery I’m guessing that’s your issue. There’s a few BMS’s out there that support that kinda thing but I would rather run no BMS than one that isn’t made for the battery.
The ones for the enclosure from @eBoosted/@stratoglide work great. However the ones I bought on Amazon for the trucks are not so great. They have thin wall and a few have snapped open during insertion. They’re in there now and the breaking has actually caused them to wedge themselves in. They are also gorilla glued in. Luckily the threaded part is not damaged just the hex key portion
So, I assume these here are the new inserts you put in… because they are the ones suggested by @eBoosted. I also made the same mistake ordering the other inserts from Amazon. Those are made out of brass and half of them break during insertion. According to him, the best way to secure them is to add silicone and holding like a rock.
Those are called X-Things. The best ones (and prettiest) in my opinion are these… because they are not massive or thicker like others. These are just 3 millimeters thick made out of aluminum and strong enough to hold your mounting bolts. They also come with the countersunk bolt holes which are the universal standard for mounting truck plates on wooden boards. They will give your board a nice retro appearance (they also come in other colors like black, gold or raw).
because they are the ones suggested by 
