Even if the wheels should be using only 30% more power, that extra 30% might be harsh on your battery (cause it to sag / really swet while working), which could lead to a more than a 30% loss in capacity. (In fact, it will always be at least that)
Upgrading from a 10s5p to a 10s6p might give you way more than just a 20% range increase if that’s the case. (Although a 10s5p out of 40T cells already sounds like a pretty beefy battery to me, but still 
)
Yes, the battery sweats a lot for sure, it’s getting pretty hot.
Sadly no place for more cells , I’ll have to deal with that. But I wonder if 110 ones will be a good comparison.
What kv motors are you running? And what bat / motor amps?
6374 maytech, 190kv , I think bat/mot amps are configured to 60a (unity)
I feel like a 10s5p 40T pack shouldn’t be getting hot with 60 bat amps max…
After 12km without a stop, maybe it’s reasonable …
I got metr.pro, I really need to record a session to see what’s going on there …
What’s the gear ratio when you were on pneumatics?
50% is way abnormal. I would suspect it’s under geared for that much reduction in range.
I don’t know…with 60 bat amps max you’re pulling ~12 per p group max. Graph below shows 45 degrees nearing full discharge @ continuous 10amps. So unless you’re accelerating hard constantly for 12km (You might be, I don’t know 
)…they shouldn’t be sweating!
Does gearing really change consumption that much? As far as I know it just affects torque and motor temperature. Sure, motor temperature can change consumption, but I don’t think by that much…
There are greater losses during acceleration and braking if the gearing is really inefficient. More energy is required to move you. Torque is just one way we can quantify the energy available/being expended and the gearing helps to multiply the motor power to the wheels.
More current, but less volts. Same power, so same energy. But yeah, I guess motor losses would be more. Good point.
How excessive is hard riding. And what’s your average watt hour?
We’re getting off topic here from the original wheels.
I just built a 12S5P 21700b that pulls 75 amps and he gets 25 miles consistently with bergs and AVX drives.
I would be very surprised if these caused more of an efficiency impact than pneumatics. However, it’s important to note the shape. The contact patch is likely 3 or more times wider than bergs or similar shaped tires. If they’re very soft as well that could be adding up I guess
I measured my contact patch, it looks to be around 40mm. Ill do an official range test once I get 40-44t pulleys
Sick build, looks like some sci-fi tank!
Would you say they could compare to pneummies ? I’m not doing off-roads but I have some nasty misaligned pavement here
EDIT : what deck is this ?
Thanks! Its a threesix downhill deck. I have TB AT pneumatics, which are good, but these wheels just make it alot easier to ride on the choppy streets here in the city. The ride quality between these and pneumatics is very similar, except these have a lower center of gravity so its more stable. And you don’t need to worry about blow outs.
Ok, so after going from Onsra 115 to Abec 97 , I can say that the Onsra takes x2 battery.
Setup: 10s5p, 20a, Gearing, 15/40 , with 97: 56km , with Onsra: 30km
Soo… just use pneumatics after all?
Maybe 
Hey guys, I bought these wheels a while back and i have been testing them for about 100km, and my feedback is that they for sure eat alot of range i was doing 17 km very fast riding with hills on my orangatang 83mm 80A and now im barely getting to 13 km in a normal/fast, but without hills. BUT they´re confortable as shit, they go over cracks like nothing, great feeling, great grip, and no notable wear yet. Im improving the battery to a 10s4p now and changing the gear ratio to 14/40, so i will update on here when i have my new setup (btw dickyho pulleys fit the kegel holes)
Might want to avoid going under 15T for motor pulley
