Yup, its looking for a new home
Was your battery ok?
Yeah i was lucky, its just some soot on there an i have since replaced the heat shrink.
I will probably order a power board to transplant the still working conponents and hope i can get this logic board fixed. This machined heatsink is looking very good tough.
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Daaaaaang! How’d you guys come by those? They seem to always be out of stock 
Did you by any chance take speed measurements for that motor on 16s?
I got the last one a couple months ago, I think hes had setbacks on the next vesc hes working on and then corona hit to make things worse…
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I ordered PCBs and soldered them myself, will measure the speed at 16s when i have the replacements ready
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WOAH! I had no idea it was open source! Maybe I’ll build some too!
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Hey!
I’ve Been following this build guide for a while and have finally decided that I’m going to build my own onewheel.
I do have a few questions though.
First I’m planning on fitting a 13s4p battery in the board and was wondering if it will be too much power for a Flipsky Mini FSESC4.20 and a Phub-188 48v 800w wheel motor.
I’m also not sure if the balance function is also compatible on the 4.2 hardware version of the Vesc.
Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
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Balance is compatible with v4, but personally id recommend getting a Trampa MK3 over a flipsky. Don’t cheap out on the brain it has the hardest job. If you must go cheap on the brain, the Cheap FOCer v2 will be out real soon, and people will probably be selling them. It will outperform flipsky and has integrated IMU.
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The Trampa is wayy over my price range. I’m trying to stay under 100$ for the ESC. The FOCer v2 seems promissing but I don’t know how easily I would get one in Europe.
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Trampa VESC is a great investment, they can be sold for most of what you paid for it later on if you find something else to use. Flipsky is likely to not function well.
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It does sound good but I can’t justify spending that much money on it. Are there any other cheaper options?
An old focbox is ok, maybe a neobox (i haven’t tried it).
Anything without an onboard IMU means you cant use a bluetooth/nrf chip, so no mobile app or tuning without a laptop. You can get a WavRX for telemetry, but thats an extra 60$.
I think I’d be fine without an IMU. Thanks for the help!
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Hi all,
Looking to build a one wheel and have pretty much just power read this thread and the old thread to try and get up to speed on what I need.
Thinking of getting the following for the core hardware: phub-188 wheel, 12S2P pack using Samsung 25Rs, and the Cheap FOCer V2 w/ IMU.
Can anyone think of any potential issues with this build aside from the max top speed being potentially lacklustre without doing the motor mod Jopj did. Will a 2P configuration of the 25Rs supply enough current? It seems the motor can really suck current, so if I have to make a 3P pack I’ll bite the bullet and make a larger one. Was just hoping to keep the cost and mass as low as possible.
Cheers in advance for any insight, and a big thanks for all the work and info you’ve all been able to share so far.
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It’ll work, 3p would be better, but up to you on cost vs power & weight. At this point phub-188 and cheap focer v2 are probably the new standard for an average budget build.
I suggest to change 25R for 30Q
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@doomy I see several safety issues with your battery pack. I highly suggest taking a look at Fungineers video of safely constructing a battery pack and making sure that your ESC is properly insulated as well: $YOU_TUBE/watch?v=f9hsqDr381o
Thank you relys, you mean the balance wires ? Those are awg30 they will vaporise before causing any true damage. I did not put any fishpaper rings under the plus poles but i think thats no issue.
I maybe should put more fish paper around the whole pack. Because im very worried about the a200s putting the battery minus on the whole frame and metal parts of the board. I thought about how to insulate it but other than machining and anodizing the official case i found no solution so far. Maybe you have some ideas?
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Some of the points in the video:
- Put fish paper between the groups of batteries in parallel.
- Put fish orings on the + ends
- Route balance wires so that they are not on top of each other. Use kapton tape to secure routing. Place a line of fishpaper where the wires will rest
- For+ and - main leads, don’t solder them directly to the battery (see video of how he did it with a little tab and fishpaper where it rests on the sides)
- Once battery is done, wrap with kapton tape.
- Optionally, I’ve seen some people put a layer of foam
- Wrap in the heat shrink
Now, while I don’t think this was the cause of your failure (most likely a short on your ESC sitting on metal), they are still some important changes to make sure you don’t burn your house down.
As far as protecting the ESC you could make a 3d printed case. If you don’t want to do that, you could put a layer of foam inside your enclosure and also put some fishpaper and kapton tape on the bottom of your ESC to make sure that so that none of the components sit on the bare metal.
Also, one more safety thing I can think of is to make sure your IMU is mounted securely. Last thing you want is it getting loose and giving you incorrect reading (throwing you off the wheel lol).
For any wires, make sure they are good quality silicone (not cheap pvc) and they are padded and insulated properly in the frame to deal with any vibrations over time.
One other important item I can think of. You will want to make sure you are using an anti-spark switch between battery connectors such as the xt90-s.