I love this build. My very first build was a double kick and I love kickball builds. Especially when the components are all solid like this one. Makes me want to do another short-ish longboard build like my LY Dinghy nickel but slightly bigger.
Also, Simon says he needs a bigger board. I don’t really need excuses to build, but I’ll accept them.
I totally forget to mention that this is one of the sickest implementations of a loop key I’ve seen yet. Would be something else if loop keys went more mainstream because of shit like this. I Feel like most builds are button start these days, but I want to see more of this.
that’s actually a great idea. with kegels. I need to find it. I think the enclosure is still good too. I have an old LHB dual 6355 9mm belt drive that would be fine for him too. I could have him on an original 2016 retromod.
No they never are lol. Looking like this will be a sick build, I like the loopkey idea in the riser. Also, makes me think that’d be a good spot for other things like range extender.
Learning to stop working on a board, and just ride it until it stops working (while building another one, of course) might be a strategy you haven’t tried yet
I have a weird obsession with keeping old boards that don’t run anymore just because I might want to restore them one day. Not with new shiny parts, but with the original ones.
My MakerX DV6 showed up today so I did some work on the board. Got the components fastened in place in the enclosure, drilled and mounted the charge port, mounted my VX4 receiver, and also drilled and installed the grommets for the motor wires. I cut some neoprene foam to help keep the battery safe as well. Note to self - get a fuse for the fuse block on the charging port.
For between the enclosure and deck I cut a piece of 3mm rubber. I oversized it by a few mm all the way around. First issue I ran into now is the enclosure does not want to flex as much and fit to the deck smoothly because of the thick battery inside. What I think I’ll attempt is tracing out the enclosure (unless I can get a CAD drawing) and print a gasket to fill the gap (around 8-10mm thick). Most likely out of TPU to keep it malleable. If that works I may not need the rubber gasket sheet but we’ll see. Then, on to drilling and installing the inserts.
I also tested my loop key with the battery/ESC and it’s working great so far.
(Phase wires sticking out the holes just to keep them out of the way for now. They’ll be tucked inside the enclosure, and the motor wires will be fed through the grommets)