Octane 💉 | TB 100 | Jet Spud | 12s4p Sanyo 20700A | Dual BN Gear Drives

[YeetMeat]

Hey all, here’s my first build thread that’s going to detail my progress as I get along. I’ve got more or less all of my components on hand, but I’m a little busy atm to fully complete this. I’m calling this board Octane since I’m going with a black/green theme, basing this off of the Apex character Octane (my favorite to play )

I also want to preface this by giving thanks to all of the people that have helped me or answered my questions, whether it was big or small. I definitely couldn’t have done something like this without everyone’s guidance and help (and mistakes made ).There’s so many to mention so I’ll probably have a later post with all of those people, but I wanted to put this out there in the first post.

This board is gonna be a fun/commuter board – one that I hopefully won’t really have to worry about charging all the time when out and about.

Components

• Jet Spud
• DS Eboosted enclosure
• Boardnamics 184mm Hangers
• Boardnamics new adjustable baseplates (60/30 split, up for change)
• Dual BN Gear Drives (Straight cut gears)
• TB 6355 190kv motors
• TB 100mm Black 'thane
• 12s4p Sanyo 20700A cells
• LLT Smart BMS
• Xenith esc (v1)

Minor components

• Zealous bearings
• 1/8 in risers
• Planned LP20 Plug
• 50.4V 8A charger
• Planned 3D printed TPU gastet
• Foam

Some pics:

The Deck

The deck needs some touch-ups since I bought it used with a bunch of holes it in, which I proceeded to fill with epoxy and epoxy putty. The first time around with normal epoxy didn’t fill in all of the holes all the way (my goof up) and I was lazy so I just stuffed them with milliput:

The wheel wells also didn’t line up with the enclosure, leaving gaps for potential ingress. To fix this I filled up the wheel wells with wood filler, which I then sanded (fortunately, with my current truck angles I don’t have any wheel bite):

Not perfect, but turned out pretty well imo.

From here, I’m going to be laying a few layers of fiberglass onto the bottom + 1 on top with a graphic of Octane (ideally), topped off with fine/med frit. I may save this for later and just use grip tape before I decide exactly what graphic I want on top.

The Battery

As you guys saw earlier, I’m cramming a 12s4p pack in here. Originally it was going to be P42A, but seeing as they’re limited in supply or stupidly expensive, I decided to go with the Sanyo 20700A. At 12s4p, I don’t think I’m really going to need much more performance with this cell (though the extra capacity with the P42A would’ve been cool).

I’m going to be using folded 0.2mm nickel for the s connections in this pack, as this shouldn’t flex, and is going to save me some time and the cells from unnecessary heat. Ultimately this pack is going to be shrink wrapped and pressure fitted with foam into the enclosure.

Motors

Just battle hardened them with milliput. I’m going to replace the connectors with mr60s.

[Plurf]

Beautifull deck and sweet drvietrain

[YeetMeat]

Initial p-group:

Here I’m gluing 2 together at a time, then gluing the two pairs, and finally stuffing the butt (center crack) with silicone. Not sure how well this will hold up, but I think it’s pretty solid atm.

[Evwan]

What is this black glue?

[YeetMeat]

This stuff

It’s a little less stringy and people seemed to like using it so I picked some up a while back from my last pack. I think it flows a little better than normal hot glue

[Soho1212]

You may want to seal the wood filler, I know treated wood is a pain to work with when fibreglassing as it lifts so wood filler may give the same reaction, I’d probably seal it the night before with slow curing epoxy

[YeetMeat]

Too late

Didn’t see this before I started haha. Hoping for the best. Since this deck is short and already pretty stiff I think 2 layers of 1.5oz chopped mat will be OK? I’m probably going to add another topside just for more protection. I was this guy to last

[YeetMeat]

Sooo it’s been a while, but I have made progress

Pic of the deck:

not sure where the rest of them went…but adding the fiberglass went overall well. I spent SO SO much time sanding and finishing the deck, but it was worth it in the end. The only difference after what is shown is another layer of epoxy that was added and truck liner was sprayed on.

Pics of the battery in progress:

I could’ve sworn I took more pictures, but here’s what I have of the battery. I used single 1/4" tinned copper braid for the series connections over folded 0.2mm nickel. I’ve got the balance wires running off the side where I could, since I had ample space.

I had some issues with poor welds, but @TheBoardGarage set me straight with some solid advice. If you’re having issues getting solid welds on a Malectrics welder and can’t get a Kweld, this video may help.

@AK1 Gave very useful advice you can find here as well!

One really big issue I ran into was battery clearance – the enclosure would not mount with the battery inside. The DS spud enclosure wasn’t designed for double stack 20700 cells, but I thought I had measured correctly (at the front of the enclosure at the lowest point) and was sure there would be enough space.

Turns out, the enclosure has some camber to it (what?). Not sure if it somehow ended up that way over time, or if it just came like that out of the mold and I never noticed, but this created more problems, as now the battery wouldn’t fit.

To fix this, I had to gut out a channel on the underside of the deck AND cut a 1/2" solid rubber gasket for it to finally fit (sorry for the lack off pics, I’m sure I took them but I can’t find them, sorry).

Here’s what the innards look like in their final state:

(don’t ask about the right side of the gasket)

I ended up deciding to run with HFI on this as getting the sensors into the enclosure without making some permanent connections wasn’t ideal IMO, and making adapters for detachable connectors involved more work that I didn’t want to do (I wanted to get this thing up and running before the fall semester as my commuter board). So I used black Milliput to secure the connectors on:

I’ll post some more of my settings for reference later.

Now this build IS supposed to be themed after Octane, and my original plans were to have a decal of Octane on top and to frit the deck, but I decided I will go with the Katakana of Octane (オクタン) instead. I got pretty busy, so I’m not sure when I will be able to get it done yet, but the board is rideable!

** I did forget to mention, I used this 3D printed part(s) for housing the Xenith and BMS

[Red_souls]

Awesome deck, what kind of mileage / speed you get?

[Rudi]

This is a superb build! I’d wager one could squeeze 30mi from it.

[Plurf]

@YeetMeat

This enclosure looks like it needs sleep as much as I do

[YeetMeat]

I don’t have the endurance to give it a full range test in one ride yet XD

But from a full charge (50V) I rode pretty hard (25-30 mph, with frequent stopping and slowing for traffic, pedestrians, etc) for 14 miles or so, and the battery was left at around 37V (if I remember correctly lolol). I have my cutoff at 3.2V/cell, iirc, but if I rode more conservatively (like 18-22mph) I think I could get at least 20 miles