tips not sharp enough
-when my tips get rounded at the top, I notice the weld is more of a hotspot then a weld, and it might not stick as well as a sharper tip would be. Nickel still gets red with this, but the area is too wide to weld unless you crank it.
bad battery
-I started off using a boat battery with 850 cca and 14ms, but after 10k welds, I needed around 40ms+ for similar welds. I’m now at 15k welds and need 60ms. Batteries wear down over time, especially if it’s a used battery (like my lawn mower battery I used at first… that thing was awful but worked)
bad connections
-Tighten everything down hard. If it’s not full contact you don’t get full Amps. Every 2k welds or so I have to check all my bolts because they loosen and make me have to bump up the ms a bit.
If you can, get another 12v battery and voltage match them, then connect in parallel to see if it’s just a weak battery.
I’ll sharpen them some more and tighten down the connections, and I might need to have a look at my crimps too. What’s a good amount of amps? The welder estimates 1400ish
I hope it’s not this, since I bought a brand new car battery last week just for this, and I’m not sure if I’d be able to get another car battery to link it up with
I did this but now since the main -ve balance wire and the 1st balance wire are both on the -ve the 1st p group reads as 0. Will this ruin my battery when charging/balancing as it will try to fix this 0.0V group? Is there a setting I should change for it to skip that first one? I am using an ANT bms with the app called MaYi-BMS. How will it balance all 16 groups now?
Also, have you checked the voltage of your first group w a multimeter? Do that to confirm but this looks like a wiring error. Did you do a wiring diagram? I personally wouldn’t leave an error like that and just use the battery bc your bms will not balance your first p-group. That’s potentially very problematic. Look at your wiring diagram and figure out where you made the error and fix it
I checked the voltage of all the groups. They’re all good. Don’t worry the crossing at the end that will be resolved once I put cover connector on the end of the enclosure.
There are 18 BMS wires for my 16s pack. One for each p group and one main +ve and -ve. Each BMS wire was attached to the -ve of each p group instead of the +ve like the instructions. Here is the 1st p group and overall placement (at green tape).
any spot welder that works on household power outlet, worth buying out there?
bought a malectric few years ago and only decided to assemble it yesterday couldn’t figure out how to connect the foot switch cause the wires were not the same color as in the guide, plus there was no diagram to connect it. Anyways tried to fiddle with it and now the screen doesn’t work anymore.
So I am looking into options before buying a replacement for my fuck up.
Apparently people don’t like the sunkko.
You need to reflow the majority of these connections IMHO. Stick a dollop of flux on top, then hold down the wire with plier nose and try to get a pool to form over the wire.
Check back to that video Skyart made expressly for you.
Doesn’t have to be pretty like Sky or Duck (mine aren’t), but the wire end should ideally be immersed in the solder.
I would start over with less wire exposed on the ends and tinned, and then try to cover them up nicely.